Silsangsa Temple

In the farmland of Sannae-myeon, Namwon, with the ridges of Jirisan rising behind like a folding screen, a temple stands at the end of a path between rice paddies. Unlike most Korean temples, which sit deep in the mountains, Silsangsa is built on flat ground, and first-time visitors often wonder if they have taken the right road. This quiet temple opened the way for Seon (Zen) Buddhism in late Silla, and few single temples in Korea hold as many Unified Silla treasures.

History: the first of the Nine Mountain Schools

Silsangsa is said to have been founded in 828, the third year of King Heungdeok of Silla, by the monk Hongcheok, posthumously called Jeunggak, after his studies in Tang China. The king and the crown prince became devoted followers, and the temple became the seat of the Silsangsan school. The temple's name, Silsang, is a Buddhist term for the true nature of all things. It was the first of the Nine Mountain Schools, the founding Seon lineages of late Silla.

The temple declined during the Joseon period. It was ruined during the second Japanese invasion in the 1590s, rebuilt in 1700 under King Sukjong, and then largely destroyed by fire in 1882. Later reconstructions never restored its former size. During the Korean War, fighting raged across Jirisan, but the temple's heritage survived without major damage.

What to see

• East and west three-storey pagodas: a pair of Unified Silla pagodas standing side by side in front of the main hall, designated Treasures.
• Seated iron Buddha: a late Silla iron statue in Yaksajeon hall, designated a Treasure.
• Lantern, stupas and steles: a Unified Silla stone lantern, the stupa and memorial stele of the founder Jeunggak, the stupa of Master Sucheol and other Treasures are spread across the grounds.
• Haetalgyo bridge and stone guardians: at the entrance, a half-moon stone bridge crosses the Mansucheon stream, followed by carved stone guardian posts.

Good to know

Many stories link Silsangsa with Japan. One geomantic tale says that without a temple here the nation's energy would flow away to Japan, and a local saying goes: "When Japan rises, Silsangsa falls; when Japan falls, Silsangsa rises." The temple's hermitage Baekjangam holds the three-storey stone pagoda of Baekjangam, a National Treasure worth a detour if you have time.

Silsangsa has three hermitages: Baekjangam, Seojinam and Yaksuam. Lying at the foot of Jirisan, the temple stood in the middle of the area where partisans and government troops fought during the Korean War, yet the temple and its heritage came through without major damage. With one National Treasure and more than ten Treasures spread across the grounds and hermitages, it rewards a slow visit.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: open all year, with parking. The grounds are a place of practice, so keep your voice down.
• Getting there: a car from central Namwon is the easiest option. The address is 94-129 Ipseok-gil, Sannae-myeon, Namwon.
• Time needed: about 1 hour for the grounds; allow more if you add Baekjangam.
• Stay overnight: the temple runs temple stays, a one-night rest programme and a three-night experience programme. Ask the temple in advance about booking and fees.