Jirisan Mountain

Jirisan is a vast mountain spread across three provinces and five cities and counties: Hadong, Hamyang and Sancheong in South Gyeongsang, Gurye in South Jeolla and Namwon in North Jeolla. Its highest peak, Cheonwangbong, is second only to Hallasan, making it the highest peak on the South Korean mainland. On 29 December 1967 it became Korea's first national park, and at about 483 km² it is the largest of the mountain national parks. The biggest share of the park, and Cheonwangbong itself, lies in South Gyeongsang.

History: the mountain of those on the run

Jirisan is the southern end of the Baekdudaegan, the mountain chain running down from Baekdusan. It has long been regarded as a sacred mountain, and old temples sit on its slopes. One story says the name means that even a foolish person becomes wise by staying here, but another explanation is that it renders an old Korean word for "long mountain" in Chinese characters. Another name, Duryusan, meaning that the ridge flows down from Baekdusan, has been used since the Joseon period. Jirisan really is big and long: its area is about two thirds of Seoul's, its circumference about 320 km, and its main ridge, at 25.5 km or 28 km depending on the source, is the longest in Korea.

Deep and wide, it also sheltered people on the run. Righteous armies fighting Japan and Donghak peasant rebels hid here, and after the Korean War remaining partisans fought on in Jirisan until 1955. That period inspired the 1955 film Piagol.

What to see

• Cheonwangbong: depending on the source, 1,915 m or 1,916.77 m high. Sunrise from Cheonwangbong heads the list of Jirisan's ten scenic views.
• Nogodan (1,507 m): a peak famous for its sea of clouds; in autumn many come for the silver grass.
• Banyabong (1,732 m): a peak known for its sunsets.
• Main ridge: a long ridge links Cheonwangbong, Banyabong and Nogodan, with peaks over 1,000 m such as Chotdaebong and Tokkibong along the way.
• Valleys: Baemsagol, Piagol, Chilseon and Hansin valleys run deep into the mountain. Piagol is famous for autumn colours.
• Temples: Hwaeomsa, the largest and best known, along with Ssanggyesa, Silsangsa, Yeongoksa, Cheoneunsa, Daewonsa and Chilbulsa. Hwaeomsa holds several stone National Treasures made around 600–900 CE.

Jirisan's nature

Water from Jirisan flows both ways: one stream becomes the Namgang, a tributary of the Nakdong River, and the other joins the Seomjin River. The pools below the falls in Baemsagol valley are known for their depth.

A project to bring back the nearly extinct Asiatic black bear has succeeded, and around 100 bears now live on Jirisan, one more reason to stay on marked trails. Along with Seoraksan, Jirisan is one of the few places in Korea where the northern nutcracker lives. Endangered plants such as Jeffersonia, winter hazel and Trientalis grow here, as well as alpine species, and some plants first found on the mountain carry "Jiri" in their names.

One more hiking route

Samsinbong (1,284 m) is a popular day hike from the Ssanggyesa side. From Ssanggyesa it is about 2.3 km to Buril Falls; from the turn just before the falls the path continues about 6.9 km to the peak. There is an emergency helipad near the summit. The round trip is about 18.4 km, with roughly four hours up and three down on steep ground. Water is hard to find once you leave the stream, so carry plenty. In Cheonghak-dong, on the slopes of Jirisan, stands Samseonggung, a shrine celebrating one of Korea's foundation myths.

Did you know

• About 1,500 plant species grow on Jirisan, more than anywhere in Korea except Hallasan.
• Jirisan's ten scenic views are sunrise on Cheonwangbong, the sea of clouds at Nogodan, sunset at Banyabong, the full moon at Byeoksoryeong, autumn leaves in Piagol, royal azaleas in bloom, Chilseon Valley, the clear Seomjin River, Buril Falls and the Yeonha scenery.
• Baemsagol, "snake valley", is said to be named after a legend about a giant serpent that died there. Some 1,300 years ago, the story goes, Songnimsa temple at the valley mouth sent one monk each year to become an immortal, until the great monk Seosan coated that year's monk's robe with poison and the serpent was found dead. The village at the valley entrance, Banseon ("half immortal"), takes its name from the tale.

Tripto tips

• Nogodan reservations: the summit section of Nogodan runs on the Korea National Park Service reservation system. Book your date online before you go.
• Planning a hike: a day hike to Cheonwangbong or a traverse of the main ridge is long and demanding. If you want to stay in a mountain shelter, check the park service's booking system.
• Fire prevention periods: some trails may close in spring and autumn. Check closures on the Korea National Park Service website.
• When to go: summer and autumn are the busiest seasons. Spring brings royal azaleas, autumn the colours of Piagol.
• Time needed: allow half a day for a temple such as Hwaeomsa or Ssanggyesa and a valley walk, and a full day for Cheonwangbong or Nogodan.