Oeosa Temple

On the eastern slopes of Unjesan in Pohang, Oeosa sits right at the water's edge of a mountain reservoir. Tradition dates its founding to the reign of King Jinpyeong of Silla, and its name, meaning "my fish temple", comes from a story in the Samguk Yusa (Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms) in which the great monks Wonhyo and Hyegong joke over a fish. Add the walk around the reservoir and the climb to a cliff-top hermitage, and half a day passes easily.

Wonhyo, Hyegong and the fish

The temple was first called Hangsasa. It is said to have been founded by the monk Jajang, and records tell that Hyegong and Wonhyo both practised here. According to the Samguk Yusa, when Hyegong was spending his last years at Hangsasa, Wonhyo often came to ask him about the scriptures. One day, after the two had caught and eaten fish and shrimp by the stream, Hyegong pointed at what Wonhyo had left on a rock and teased him: "Your droppings are my fish."

Over the centuries the story changed. In the version told today, the two monks competed to bring the fish they had eaten back to life, and when one fish swam away alive, each claimed it as "my fish". Either way, the name Oeo combines o ("my") and eo ("fish").

What to see

• Daeungjeon Hall: the main hall was rebuilt in 1741, in the late Joseon period. Three bays wide and two deep under a hipped-and-gabled roof, it has bracket sets placed both on and between the columns, a style known as dapo. It was designated a tangible cultural heritage of North Gyeongsang Province in 2012. Most of the other halls are recent.
• The Oeosa bronze bell: cast in 1216 under the Goryeo dynasty, it was found in November 1995 while the reservoir bed was being dredged. It is designated a Treasure, and the bell hanging in today's bell pavilion is a copy.
• Wonhyo's straw hat: a hat said to have been worn by Wonhyo is kept as the temple's best-known relic. Since a woven straw hat would have to have survived for well over a thousand years, its authenticity cannot be confirmed, but it is the object most visitors ask about.
• Nahanjeon, Seolseondang, Chilseonggak and Sallyeonggak: the smaller halls are packed closely together on the narrow strip of land along the water.

The reservoir and two hermitages

The reservoir in front of the temple, Oeoji, was created in 1961 by damming the valley for irrigation. A forest trail of about 7 km (some sources say 7.7 km) runs around it, and a suspension bridge crosses the water in front of the temple.

• Jajangam: a hermitage perched on a steep cliff behind the temple, said to stand where Jajang once stayed. The climb is steep, but the view down onto the temple roofs and the reservoir is the most striking in the area.
• Wonhyoam: about 500 m west of Daeungjeon, in the woods across the reservoir. The path is gentler than the one to Jajangam, making it an easy side trip.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 40 minutes to 1 hour for the temple grounds; add an hour for Jajangam or Wonhyoam. A full loop of the reservoir trail takes 2–3 hours.
• Best seasons: around November, when the autumn colour on Unjesan is reflected in the water, and the fresh green of early summer.
• Getting there: the easiest way is by car or taxi from Pohang KTX Station or central Pohang. City buses are infrequent, so check the timetable in advance. There is a car park in front of the temple.
• Etiquette: Oeosa is a working temple where monks practise. Keep quiet in the halls and avoid taking photos during services.
• Contact: +82-54-292-2083