Bulguksa Temple

Bulguksa is the best-known temple of the Silla kingdom, set on the western slopes of Tohamsan in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province. Its wooden halls stand on tall stone terraces, so while fires replaced the buildings several times, the 8th-century Silla stonework has survived. Together with Seokguram Grotto it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, and it is still a working temple, the head temple of the 11th district of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.

History: a temple for two sets of parents

Accounts of its founding differ. One temple record says it was first built in 528 at the wish of Lady Yeongje, mother of King Beopheung, while the Samguk Yusa says chief minister Kim Dae-seong began a major building project in 751. Kim is said to have built Bulguksa for his parents in this life and Seokguram for his parents from a previous life. After his death the royal court took over and finished the temple around 774.

All the wooden buildings burned down during the Japanese invasion in 1593. Rebuilding began in 1604, and the temple was repaired close to 40 times up to 1805, but it declined in the late Joseon period. Its present form dates from a major restoration in 1969–1973, when Museoljeon, Gwaneumjeon, Birojeon and the covered corridors were rebuilt.

What to see

• Cheongungyo and Baegungyo bridges: a double stone stairway leading up to Jahamun Gate and the main hall area. The lower Baegungyo has 18 steps and the upper Cheongungyo 16, 34 steps in all, said to stand for the stages towards enlightenment. They are protected as a National Treasure, so you cannot climb them.
• Yeonhwagyo and Chilbogyo bridges: the smaller stone bridges to the west, leading to Anyangmun Gate and the Hall of Supreme Bliss. Each step was carved with lotus flowers, now worn smooth.
• Dabotap and Seokgatap pagodas: the two pagodas side by side in front of the main hall. The ornate Dabotap (10.4 m) is the one on the 10-won coin, while the plain Seokgatap (8.2 m) is seen as the classic form of the Korean stone pagoda. Two pagodas of opposite character in one courtyard is what makes it special.
• Daeungjeon, Geungnakjeon and Birojeon: three areas dedicated to the Shakyamuni, Amitabha and Vairocana Buddhas. Geungnakjeon and Birojeon hold gilt-bronze Buddha statues that are National Treasures.
• Gwaneumjeon and Museoljeon: from Gwaneumjeon, the highest point, you look down over layers of tiled roofs. Museoljeon, the "Hall of No Words", is named after the idea that the Buddha's teaching cannot be passed on by words alone.

Bulguksa as it once was

When it was first completed, Bulguksa is said to have had some 80 buildings with about 2,000 bays, including the main hall, the two pagodas, the stone bridges, Geungnakjeon, Museoljeon and Birojeon. When Dabotap was dismantled for repair in 1924, during the colonial period, the reliquary inside disappeared and has never been found. Dabotap, Seokgatap and the four stone bridges were designated National Treasures on 20 December 1962, and Dabotap was dismantled and repaired again in 2008–2009.

Did you know

• The Dharani Sutra found in 1966 while Seokgatap was being repaired is counted among the oldest woodblock prints in the world.
• The writer Hyun Jin-geon wrote a historical novel about the building of Seokgatap and Dabotap, which became the basis of the 1957 film Shadowless Pagoda.
• Seokgatap was dismantled for restoration in 2012, and the work was completed in 2015.
• As head temple of the Jogye Order's 11th district, Bulguksa oversees temples such as Bunhwangsa, Girimsa, Golgulsa and Bulyeongsa, and Seokguram is one of its hermitages.
• The layout was meant to set out on earth both the Buddha land of Shakyamuni and the paradises of Amitabha and Vairocana.

Combine with: Seokguram Grotto

Further up Tohamsan from Bulguksa is Seokguram, the grotto Kim Dae-seong is said to have built for his parents from a previous life. It is an artificial cave of dressed granite with an antechamber, a corridor and a round main chamber. In the chamber a seated Shakyamuni Buddha looks out towards the sea, and bodhisattvas, disciples and guardian kings are carved in relief on the walls around him. The domed ceiling and corridor were built with an inventive technique using more than 360 stone slabs.

Today a road winds around Tohamsan straight to Seokguram, but people from Gyeongju going on outings used to walk up the hiking trail from Bulguksa. If you have the time and energy, the walk is worth trying.

Tripto tips

• Admission: since 4 May 2023 heritage admission fees have been abolished, so entry is free and only parking is charged.
• Opening hours: they change with the season, so check the official website before you go.
• When to go: April blossoms and autumn colours are the most beautiful times. Early morning or late afternoon is much quieter than midday, when tour groups arrive.
• Time needed: about 1.5 hours for the temple alone; allow half a day if you add Seokguram higher up on Tohamsan.
• Good to know: enjoy the Cheongungyo and Baegungyo stairs from below and take the side path up to Jahamun. Please do not take photos inside the halls while people are praying.