Girimsa Temple

On the slopes of Hamwolsan, east of Gyeongju and not far from the East Sea, Girimsa sits quietly in the forest. It was once the largest temple in the Gyeongju area, so large that Bulguksa was at one point its branch temple, but its remote location means it is now a far calmer place to visit. A plain-wood main hall, five state Treasures and the legend of springs with five different tastes are the reasons to come.

History: founded by an Indian monk, expanded by Wonhyo

Tradition says the Indian monk Gwangyu founded the temple during the Silla period as Imjeongsa, and that the great monk Wonhyo enlarged it and renamed it Girimsa, after the Jetavana monastery in India where the Buddha preached. The "Samguk Yusa" records that King Sinmun, returning from the East Sea with the magic flute Manpasikjeok given to him by the Dragon King, rested to the west of Girimsa, so the temple existed at least by his reign.

It remained a major temple through Goryeo, and when King Sejong of Joseon reorganised the Buddhist orders it was named one of the 18 Seon temples. During the Japanese invasions of the 1590s it was a centre of the warrior-monk resistance. Many buildings burned in 1863 and were rebuilt, but as it escaped the wars largely unscathed, numerous old documents and royal calligraphy survive. Under Japanese rule it was one of the 31 head temples; today it is a branch of Bulguksa in the Jogye Order.

What to see

• Daejeokgwangjeon (Treasure): the main hall, dedicated to Vairocana Buddha. A late-Joseon hall with entasis columns, multi-bracket sets and a gabled roof, its unpainted wood gives it a restrained dignity.
• Clay Vairocana Buddha Triad (Treasure): the three seated Buddhas inside the main hall, a textbook example of early Joseon sculpture. The texts found inside the statues are also a designated Treasure.
• Dry-lacquered Bodhisattva (Treasure): a seated Bodhisattva made of many layers of lacquer, displayed in the temple museum.
• Three-storey pagoda and Hall of 500 Arhats: west of the main hall, between it and Jinnamnu pavilion, stands Eungjinjeon, the hall of the 500 Arhats, with a stone pagoda in front.
• Bodhi tree and Jinnamnu: a large bodhi tree more than 500 years old grows near the main hall, and the old Jinnamnu pavilion survives too.
• Maewoldangsa: a shrine on the grounds honouring the Joseon writer Kim Si-seup.

Good to know

• Girimsa is known for Ojongsu, five springs with five different qualities: Gamnosu, which makes the best tea; Hwajeongsu, which calms the mind; Janggunsu, said to build a mighty frame; Myeongansu, which clears the eyes; and Otaksu, whose water was so lovely that crows pecked at it. Legend says the Japanese blocked Janggunsu, "the general's water", for fear it would produce great generals, and today only four springs still flow.
• Its fortunes reversed after the mid-1940s, when the more accessible Bulguksa flourished and Girimsa became its branch.

Nearby

• Golgulsa: a temple about 4 km away with a Buddha carved into the cliff face, an easy pairing for a temple day on Hamwolsan.
• Tomb of King Munmu: about 13 km east, the underwater tomb of Silla's King Munmu in a rock off the coast, linked to the Manpasikjeok story and King Sinmun's rest near Girimsa.
• Seokguram and Bulguksa: 7–8 km to the west; Seokguram in the morning and Girimsa in the afternoon works well.

Tripto tips

• Hours: summer 08:00–18:00, winter 08:00–17:00, every day.
• Fees: admission is free; parking is KRW 2,000 for a car.
• Temple stay: a relaxed self-guided option and a hands-on programme with ceremonies and 108 prostrations; booking required.
• Time needed: about an hour for the grounds and museum. A car is far more convenient than public transport.
• Information: 054-744-2292.