Seven-story Stone Pagoda in Tappyeong-ri (Jungangtap)

In the middle of a lawn, on a mound raised on purpose, stands a seven-storey stone pagoda. The Seven-story Stone Pagoda in Tappyeong-ri is the largest and tallest surviving pagoda from the Unified Silla period. Because it stands roughly at the geographical centre of Korea, it is better known as Jungangtap, "the central pagoda" — so well known, in fact, that on 1 January 2014 the surrounding district of Gageum-myeon was renamed Jungangtap-myeon.

History: a late 8th-century pagoda

No record gives the construction date, but the pillar carvings on the base and the way the body and roof stones are fitted together point to the late Unified Silla period, the second half of the 8th century. During repairs in 1917, reliquaries and other objects were found in the sixth storey and under the base. A bronze mirror from the sixth storey turned out to be Goryeo work, showing that relics were enshrined a second time centuries after the pagoda was built. Some argue that the repairs carried out under Japanese rule altered parts of its appearance. It was designated a National Treasure in 1962.

There is a reason why such a large pagoda stands in Chungju. The city was the site of Gugwon-sogyeong, later Jungwon-gyeong, one of the five secondary capitals Silla set up in the provinces. Where river traffic on the Namhangang met the mountain passes, it was Silla's base for controlling the Han River basin, and a pagoda towering over the riverbank can be read as a statement of that importance.

What to see

• The raised mound: the pagoda was set on a high earth platform beside the Namhangang River to keep it safe from floods, which is why it seems to float above its surroundings.
• Base and body: because of its size, the base and lower storeys are assembled from several slabs. Pillar shapes are carved on each face of the base and at the corners of every storey.
• Roof stones: the corners turn up slightly, giving a light touch to a heavy structure. The underside of each roof stone has five carved steps.
• The finial: Silla pagodas usually carry the finial on a single support stone, but here two identical support stones are stacked. Look up from the foot of the pagoda to spot it.

Good to know

The pagoda stands in Jungangtap Historic Park, with wide lawns and a sculpture park, and the Chungju Museum is inside the park too. Next to it, a weir on the Namhangang River has formed Tangeumho Lake, which is busy with water sports in summer.

Nearby

• Tangeumdae: a riverside bluff on the Namhangang where Ureuk, the legendary master of the gayageum, is said to have played. In 1592, during the Japanese invasion, General Sin Rip fought and lost a battle here and threw himself into the river. It became a national Scenic Site in 2008.
• Chungju Museum: inside Jungangtap Historic Park, with exhibits on Chungju's history and finds from the upper Namhangang valley.
• Chungju Lake: the large reservoir behind the Chungju Dam, with lakeside drives, cruise boats and the road towards Woraksan.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: the pagoda and park are always open and free, with parking on site.
• Time needed: 20–30 minutes for the pagoda alone, about 1.5 hours with a walk round the park and the museum.
• Photos: standing on its mound, the pagoda makes a good silhouette against the sunset. It is floodlit at night.