Tohamsan Mountain

Tohamsan (745 m) is the mountain that holds Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto. The Silla kingdom revered it as Dongak, the "Eastern Peak" among five sacred mountains that guarded the realm. From the summit you look west over the Gyeongju basin and Namsan, and east across layered ridges towards the East Sea. Because the top is only a short climb beyond Seokguram, it is an easy way to add a mountain walk to a Gyeongju heritage trip.

Silla's sacred eastern mountain

Silla named five mountains, at the four compass points and the centre of its territory, as sacred peaks and held state rites on them. Tohamsan was the eastern one, where mid-ranking state rituals were performed for the protection of the kingdom. There are two explanations for the name. One links it to "Tohae", another name of the Silla king Seok Talhae. The other says the mountain seems to swallow (tam) the fog and clouds rolling in from the East Sea and then breathe them out (to), because the weather here changes so quickly.

The mountain is made of Bulguksa granite, formed in the Cretaceous period. This hard stone was used early on for Bulguksa's stone terraces and the sculptures of Seokguram, so mountain and temples are, quite literally, made of the same material. Tohamsan belongs to the Tohamsan district of Gyeongju National Park, and its slopes are covered mostly in pine forest.

Heritage and views on the mountain

• Seokguram Grotto: a cave temple just below the ridge near the summit, on the eastern side. Together with Bulguksa it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, and many people come up here to watch the sunrise over the East Sea.
• Bulguksa Temple: on the western foot of the mountain. An old forest path climbs from Bulguksa to Seokguram, alongside the winding road.
• The summit: a broad clearing with a marker stone inscribed with the 745 m height. On a clear day you can see the Gyeongju basin and Namsan, the ridges towards Hamwolsan to the east, and the sea horizon beyond.
• Silver grass and pines: in autumn, silver grass sways along the ridge near the top, and most of the trail runs through pine shade.

Worth knowing

Seen from central Gyeongju, Tohamsan stands like a wall across the eastern sky. The East Sea lies directly behind it, so sea fog often spills over the ridge and a clear summit can vanish into cloud within minutes. Standing on top, it is easy to see why Silla chose this mountain as its guardian against threats from the eastern sea.

Tripto tips

• Routes and time: the shortest route starts from the Seokguram car park. The gradient is gentle, and the return walk takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. If you walk up the old path from Bulguksa via Seokguram to the summit, allow half a day.
• Best time: late October to early November for silver grass and autumn colour, and clear winter mornings for the sunrise. It is windy and cold at the top, so bring an extra layer.
• Getting there: take bus 10 or 11 from central Gyeongju to Bulguksa, then bus 12 up to Seokguram. Bus 12 runs infrequently, and in the autumn foliage season the wait can be long. Drivers can use the Seokguram car park.
• Trail closures: during the spring and autumn wildfire-prevention periods, some trails may be temporarily closed. Check the Gyeongju National Park website before you set off.
• Combine with: Seokguram and Bulguksa make this a natural full-day itinerary.