Hwangmaesan Mountain

Rising on the border of Hapcheon and Sancheong counties in South Gyeongsang, Hwangmaesan was for a long time hard to find even in hiking guides. It became known after being designated a county park in 1983, and today it stands with Gayasan as Hapcheon's signature mountain. The broad plateau below the summit changes colour with the seasons: pink with royal azaleas in May, silver with pampas grass in autumn.

About the mountain

Sources differ on its height: 1,108 m or 1,113 m. From the summit you can see Hapcheon Lake as well as Jirisan, Deogyusan and Gayasan. Its three peaks reflected in Hapcheon Lake are said to look like a plum blossom floating on water, which earned it the nickname Sujungmae, "plum in the water".

The mountain is tied to Muhak, the monk who helped found the Joseon dynasty. Born in Hapcheon, he is said to have meditated in the Muhak Cave here, and legend has it that after his mother, who brought him supplies, was hurt by snakes, kudzu vines and thorns, she prayed for 100 days until the mountain had none of the three. On Deukdo Rock near the top of Mosanjae, the Silla scholar Choe Chi-won is said to have pursued his studies.

Hwangmaesan is made of diorite and syenite. The summit is bare rock, but below it a gentle plateau spreads out widely, so unlike many sharp Korean peaks the views open in every direction. In midsummer low clouds drift over green meadows, and in winter the trees are covered in rime, giving the mountain a different face in every season. At the foot of the Miracle Trail lies Yeongamsa, the site of a Silla-period temple.

What to see

• Royal azalea fields: the azaleas on the plateau at 800–900 m below the summit are known as one of the largest such fields in Korea. Different sections sit at different heights, so they bloom a few days apart.
• Pampas grass plain: in autumn the grass ripples along the ridges as far as you can see. Because the plateau is so open, each season's change is striking.
• Mosanjae: a rocky ridge with formations such as Dotdae (Mast) Rock, Yongma Rock and Deukdo Rock. Steel stairways on some sections add a thrill.
• Stargazing: with wide open skies, the plateau is considered a good place to see stars and the Milky Way from April to October.

Tripto tips

• Best time: azaleas usually in May, pampas grass in autumn. A festival is held during azalea season and crowds are heavy, so aim for an early weekday visit.
• Driving up: you can drive almost to the plateau at around 900 m where the pampas grass grows. Parking is charged.
• Trails: the Azalea Trail (ticket office–auto camping site–azalea fields–Mosanjae–ticket office) is about 6.4 km, 3 hours; the Miracle Trail (Dotdae Rock–Mosanjae–Deukdo Rock–Yeongamsa temple site) is about 4.4 km, 2 hours 30 minutes.
• Combine with: the Yeongamsa temple site at the foot of the mountain and the area around Hapcheon Lake make a relaxed full-day trip.
• Check the weather: there is no admission fee, but access can be closed in bad weather. Contact Hwangmaesan County Park before setting off.
• What to bring: there is almost no shade on the plateau. Bring a windproof jacket, a hat and water even in spring and autumn.