Godalsa Temple Site

Godalsa Temple Site is a vast former temple ground at the foot of Hyemoksan in Bungnae-myeon, Yeoju. Founded in 764, Godalsa grew into a major temple under the protection of the Goryeo kings, yet nobody knows exactly when or why it closed. The buildings are gone, but a National Treasure stupa and several stone Treasures still stand on the open meadow, so you can see the power and craftsmanship of their carving up close.

Rise and fall of a great temple

Godalsa was founded in 764, the 23rd year of King Gyeongdeok of Silla. In late Silla it was revived by Hyeonuk (787–868), founder of the Bongnimsan school of Seon, and under Goryeo the master Wonjong, Chanyu (869–958), spent many years here as the temple became a favourite of the royal court. When it was abandoned is unclear; scholars place it in the Joseon period, probably the late 17th century. Excavations have uncovered the main hall and other building sites, so the temple's size can now be roughly imagined. In 1998 a roof tile inscribed "Godalsa" was found, confirming the identification of the site. Stories say the temple's land stretched 30 ri in every direction and that hundreds of monks lived here; even the protected area today covers about 60,000 m².

The temple name comes with a legend. A stonemason named Godal poured his soul into building the temple, not even knowing that his family was starving to death. When the work was done, he shaved his head, became a monk and eventually a great master, and the temple was named after him.

Masterpieces in stone

• Stupa of Godalsa Temple Site (National Treasure): a 4.3 m stupa from early Goryeo. On the middle base a turtle with a dragon-like face looks straight ahead, while four dragons clutching pearls coil around it through clouds. The body is carved with doors, locks and the Four Heavenly Kings. It follows the octagonal form of Silla stupas, but the carving has a distinctly Goryeo vigour, making it a landmark of early Goryeo stupa art.
• Stele of Master Wonjong (Treasure): erected in 975. The turtle base, neck pulled in, teeth clenched and glaring forward, and the capstone with dragons in clouds are full of energy. The stele fell in 1915 and its inscribed body broke; the one standing now is a replica, and the original is kept at the Yeoju Museum.
• Stupa of Master Wonjong (Treasure): the stupa paired with the stele, its base with a turtle and four dragons echoing the National Treasure stupa.
• Stone pedestal (Treasure): the Buddha statue is gone, but its square pedestal, counted among the largest in Korea, remains, with softly carved lotus petals facing up and down.
• Twin-lion stone lantern: found toppled on this site, this Treasure now stands in the National Museum of Korea.
• Stone basin: a huge stone water basin used by the monks also survives, a hint of how large the monastic household once was.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: always open, free, with a simple toilet at the car park. Allow 40 minutes to 1 hour.
• Route: from the car park see the stone pedestal and the stele first, then walk up to the forest edge for Master Wonjong's stupa and the National Treasure stupa. Behind the stupas there is also a Goryeo stone-chamber tomb.
• Getting there: about 12 km in a straight line from Yeoju Station on the Gyeonggang Line, so a car is easiest. There is a "Godalsaji" bus stop nearby.
• Combine with: the Yeoju Museum, which holds the original stele body, Silleuksa Temple on the Namhangang River and King Sejong's tomb make a full day in Yeoju.
• Seasons: the open meadow has little shade, so spring and autumn are most comfortable; after snow, the outlines of the turtles and dragons stand out even more clearly.