Silleuksa Temple

Most Korean temples hide deep in the mountains, but Silleuksa in Yeoju leans against a rocky bluff right on the bank of the South Han River. A Goryeo-era brick pagoda overlooking the water, a marble multi-storey pagoda and the stupa of the great Goryeo monk Naong are among eight Treasures packed into its compact grounds, so there is plenty to see on a slow walk. It is about 3 km from Yeoju town and combines well with King Sejong's royal tomb for a day trip.

History: Wonhyo's founding legend and Master Naong

The temple is said to have been founded in the Silla period by the monk Wonhyo, who filled in a pond from which nine dragons had ascended. Several stories explain the name "Silleuk", literally "divine bridle"; the best known tells of a monk taming a fierce dragon-horse with a magic bridle.

The temple grew greatly when the late-Goryeo master Naong lived here. Naong died at Silleuksa in 1376, after which the scholar Yi Saek built a hall to house a complete Buddhist canon, and Naong's stupa was erected in 1379. In the Joseon period, when King Sejong's tomb, Yeongneung, was moved to Yeoju, Silleuksa became its prayer temple and was rebuilt with royal support. It was called Boeunsa from 1472 until 1858, when it took back its old name. Because of its brick pagoda it has long been nicknamed Byeokjeol, the "brick temple".

What to see

• Multi-storey brick pagoda (Treasure): standing on the riverside rocks and about 9.4 m tall, it is the only surviving brick pagoda from the Goryeo period. Six storeys of brick are topped by one more body stone, so it can look seven-storeyed. A stele north of it records a repair in 1726.
• Multi-storey stone pagoda (Treasure): an early Joseon pagoda of white marble in front of Geungnakbojeon Hall, with finely carved dragons, lotuses and waves on its base.
• Josadang (Treasure): a small early Joseon building enshrining portraits of the monks Jigong, Naong and Muhak, regarded as the oldest building at the temple.
• Naong's stupa and lantern: on the slope behind Josadang stand the bell-shaped stupa of Naong, its stele and an octagonal Goryeo stone lantern, all Treasures.
• Old trees: a ginkgo said to be 600 years old and a juniper of about 500 years grow in the grounds.

Nearby

• Yeongneung (Tomb of King Sejong): the royal tomb Silleuksa once served, part of the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty World Heritage site, about 15 minutes by car.
• South Han riverside: the riverbank in front of the temple looks across the water to Yeoju town, best at sunset.
• Yeoju Museum: about 600 m away inside the Silleuksa tourist area, covering the history of Yeoju.
• Hwangpo sailboats: boats modelled on old sailing barges take visitors along the South Han River from a landing near the temple area.
• Yeoju town: across the river, convenient for meals and accommodation.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 1 to 1.5 hours for the grounds, the riverside pagoda and the stupa on the slope behind.
• Best time: sunset, when the sun drops behind the brick pagoda over the river, and autumn when the ginkgo turns gold.
• Opening hours: 09:00–17:00, open every day. Parking is free.
• Admission: information on fees varies (one listing gives KRW 2,200 for adults), so check with the temple (+82-31-885-2505) before you go.
• Getting there: close to Yeoju town, a short taxi ride.
• Etiquette: keep quiet inside Josadang and the halls, and avoid photography during services.