Goundonggyegok Valley

Hidden behind Bancheon-ri in Sicheon-myeon, on the eastern flank of Jirisan, Goundonggyegok Valley is named after the Silla scholar Choe Chi-won, whose pen name was Goun. Tradition says the scenery was fine enough for him to stay here on his wanderings through Jirisan, and this is said to be the only place named after his pen name. There are no big tourist facilities, just clear water and forest, which suits anyone looking for a quiet valley.

Choe Chi-won and Jirisan

Choe Chi-won (857–?) went to Tang China at the age of twelve, passed the imperial examination there and became famous for his writing. After returning to Silla he gave up office and wandered through the mountains and along the coasts of the country, and stories about him survive all over Jirisan. Goun means "lonely cloud".

Walking the valley

As you approach Bancheon village, fields and houses open up inside a small side valley, and a path leads past Baebawi (Boat Rock) up towards Goundong. Higher up, the basin suddenly widens, a reminder that a village once stood here. The stream has named pools and falls such as Seonnyeotang (Fairies' Pool) and Unyeo Falls, and the water between the rounded boulders is clear to the bottom.

In summer the thick forest shade draws people escaping the heat, and in autumn the valley turns colour and makes a pleasant walk.

Choe Chi-won's traces on Jirisan

Choe made his name in Tang China with a proclamation denouncing the rebel Huang Chao, and the collection of writings he compiled after returning home, the Gyewon Pilgyeong, survives to this day. He is best remembered for retiring to Haeinsa Temple on Gayasan, but his writing and stories are scattered across Jirisan too. Over the ridge from Goundong, at Ssanggyesa Temple in Hadong, stands the Stele for Master Jingam, with a text he composed and wrote himself. Knowing the story behind the valley's name, you can link it with a visit to Ssanggyesa for a day with a theme.

Tripto tips

• Opening and fees: open at all times, no entry fee. There is no official car park, so park where you will not block village traffic.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours for a walk and a rest by the water.
• Getting there: from Deoksan, the centre of Sicheon-myeon, head towards Jungsan-ri, pass the sign for Jeonggaksa Temple near Oegong-ri and follow the signs for Seoji Tourist Farm. Public transport is limited, so a car is the realistic option.
• Combine with: Deoksan is home to Sancheonjae, where the Joseon scholar Nammyeong Jo Sik spent his last years, and further up the road is Jungsan-ri, the start of the trail to Cheonwangbong, the summit of Jirisan.
• Watch out for: mossy, slippery rocks. Stay away from the water after heavy rain.
• Where to stay: Seoji Tourist Farm, with water activities, is about 900 m from the valley entrance and Sancheong Dulle-gil Auto Camping is about 1.4 km away, handy if you want to walk the valley early in the morning.
• Neighbouring valleys: a little over 3 km away on the Hadong side lie Baegamdongcheon and Cheongam Valley, so you can string together several valleys on the southeastern side of Jirisan.
• Best time: July and August for resting by the water, late October to early November for autumn colours.
• Information: Sancheong County tourism office, +82 55-970-7201