Samseonggung

Over the ridge from Cheonghak-dong on Jirisan, at about 850 m above sea level, stone towers and dry-stone walls climb the hillside in terraces. Samseonggung is a place of worship and spiritual practice dedicated to Hwanin, Hwanung and Dangun, the mythical ancestors of the Korean people, and more than 1,500 stone towers stand around its woods and ponds. What makes it remarkable is that it is not an ancient site: one man and his disciples have been building it by hand since 1983.

Reviving a Gojoseon sanctuary

The full name is Baedal Seongjeon Samseonggung. In 1983, Kang Min-ju, a Hadong native known as Hanpul Seonsa, began work here with his followers to recreate a sodo (蘇塗), the sacred ritual ground of ancient Gojoseon. The name means "Palace of the Three Sages", after Hwanin, Hwanung and Dangun, and the site serves as a training ground for Seondo, a traditional Korean spiritual practice. Martial arts and traditional performing arts are also practised here.

Samseonggung lies in the Cheonghak-dong area on the southern slopes of Jirisan, a valley known for its village that has kept up traditional seodang schools and an old-fashioned way of life, which makes the idea of reviving an ancient sanctuary deep in the mountains feel less out of place. The site itself is tucked away about 1.5 km along a mountain path from the Cheonghak-dong side, and the walk in feels like a deliberate step away from the outside world.

A landscape of stone

• Stone towers: at Samseonggung the towers are called wollyeok sotdae, roughly "towers of willpower". More than 1,500 stand along the slopes and the water's edge, and the builders' stated aim has been to complete the sanctuary with 3,333 of them.
• Ponds and terraced walls: emerald-green ponds sit between tiers of stone walls, overlooked by halls with traditional tiled roofs. This is the view that appears in most photos of the site.
• Paths between the walls: from the entrance, the path winds between stone walls and boulders, past mossy rocks and small streams.
• Carved faces: look out for patterns and faces carved into boulders and walls along the way.

Good to know

Samseonggung is not a historic monument but a religious and spiritual site created since the 1980s. You may meet people praying or training, so keep your voice down. The towers are all hand-stacked: do not climb on them or lean against them.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: allow 1.5 to 2.5 hours to walk round and take photos. There are many slopes and stone steps, so take it slowly.
• Opening hours: 08:30–16:40, open every day.
• Tickets: adults KRW 8,000, youths KRW 5,000, children KRW 4,000; seniors, visitors with disabilities and veterans KRW 5,000. Parking is free. Prices can change, so check before you go.
• Getting there: the site is reached by a mountain road via Cheonghak-dong in Cheongam-myeon, Hadong, so a car is by far the easiest option. Hikers can also take an approx. 8 km trail (about 5 hours) from Ssanggyesa Temple over Samsinbong Peak to Cheonghak-dong.
• Best time: May, when the fresh leaves come out, and autumn, when the foliage turns, give the best contrast with the grey stone.
• Watch out for: at 850 m it is noticeably cooler than in the valleys, so bring a jacket.
• Nearby: combine it with Ssanggyesa Temple near Hwagae for a day on the Hadong side of Jirisan.
• Information: +82 55-884-1279