Neunggasa Temple (Goheung)

Beneath the eight rocky peaks of Palyeongsan in Goheung, South Jeolla, which rise behind it like a folding screen, Neunggasa sits on a broad stretch of flat ground. It looks like a quiet country temple, yet it holds several Treasures: an elaborately decorated main hall, a bronze bell that is the masterpiece of the 17th-century bell maker Kim Ae-rip, and sixteen arhat statues by the sculptor-monk Saengnan. It is also the main starting point for hikes along the Palyeongsan ridge.

From Bohyeonsa to Neunggasa

The temple's history stele records that Neunggasa was founded in 419, under King Nulji of Silla, by the monk Ado, and was first called Bohyeonsa. After it burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, the monk Jeonghyeon rebuilt it in 1644 and renamed it Neunggasa. The Heavenly Kings Gate was first built in 1666 and rebuilt in 1824 and 1931. The history stele itself was erected in 1690 and is listed as South Jeolla Tangible Cultural Heritage.

Saengnan, a sculptor-monk active in Jeolla Province in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, called himself "a monk of Palyeongsan", so Neunggasa was effectively his home temple and base. His name also appears among the donors for the temple bell in 1698 and for roof tiles in 1730.

The name Palyeongsan means "mountain of eight shadows". Legend says a king of the Chinese state of Wei saw eight peaks reflected in his washbasin and sent his officials to find them; another tale has their shadows reaching all the way to Hanyang (Seoul). The mountain became a provincial park in 1998 and was absorbed into Dadohaehaesang National Park in 2011.

What to see

• Main hall, Daeungjeon (Treasure): rebuilt in the mid-18th century, five bays wide and three deep. Its eaves rest on densely packed brackets, and the column heads and interior are richly decorated with lotus-bud ornaments. The bracket arms carved in relief on the wall panels between the brackets are rare in temple architecture.
• Bronze bell (Treasure): cast in 1698 by the bell maker Kim Ae-rip. It is the latest of his surviving bells but is regarded as his finest. Look for the hanging loop of two intertwined dragons, four bodhisattvas in relief and a tablet praying for the well-being of the royal family.
• Statues of the Eungjindang hall (Treasure): a Shakyamuni triad and sixteen arhats made in 1685 by Saengnan with his colleagues and pupils. The arhats sit on rocky bases with animals, each with a different expression and pose, so they reward a close look.
• Heavenly Kings Gate and statues (Treasure): wooden statues of the Four Heavenly Kings stand in the gate at the temple entrance.
• Stupas: a group of monks' stupas stands in one corner of the grounds, including those of Chugyedang and Sayeongdang.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 45 minutes to 90 minutes for the temple. A loop over peaks one to eight of Palyeongsan and back via Gitdaebong is about 8 km and takes around five hours including breaks.
• When to go: clear days in autumn or spring, when the rock peaks stand out sharply. The ridge is slippery after rain, so check the weather before climbing.
• Getting there: local buses from Gwayeok Bus Terminal (routes 341, 342, 310, 314 and others) pass the temple a few times a day; check the timetable on the Goheung County website. Drivers can use the Neunggasa car park.
• Good to know: Palyeongsan lies within the national park, so follow the trail guidance and any closure notices when hiking. The temple is a place of practice; keep your voice down inside the halls.