Geomdansan

Rising to 657 m on the eastern edge of Hanam, Geomdansan looks down on Dumulmeori in Yangsu-ri, where the Namhangang and Bukhangang rivers meet, and on Paldangho Lake. You can walk straight to the trailhead from Hanam Geomdansan Station on Seoul Subway Line 5, which makes it one of the best mountains with a view that you can reach from Seoul by public transport. Its name hints at a sacred mountain where rituals were held in the days of Hanseong Baekje.

An altar mountain for a Baekje capital

The city of Hanam explains the "geom" in Geomdan as a word for something sacred, making the name mean "holy altar". Hanam is thought to have been home to Wiryeseong, the capital of the Baekje kingdom in its Hanseong period, and Geomdansan was the guardian mountain of that capital. Traces of altars where Baekje kings are said to have prayed for the kingdom are associated with the mountain, and hikers still hold a mountain spirit ritual here every year.

What to look out for

• Summit views: the top is a wide, open clearing. To the north-east you see the river confluence at Dumulmeori and Paldangho Lake; to the west, Hanam and the eastern edge of Seoul.
• Tomb of Yu Gil-jun: halfway up the shortest route lies the tomb of Yu Gil-jun, a reformist thinker of the late Joseon era. A viewpoint rock nearby makes a good rest stop.
• Gopdol Spring and the memorial tower: the Hyeonchungtap route passes Gopdol Spring on the way to the summit, which makes it a pleasant way down.
• Geomdansan Dulle-gil: a 2.7 km forest loop (about 1 hour) that does not go to the summit, passing pine woods, Jeongsimsa Temple and the site of a former US Army camp.

Trails to the top

Hanam city lists six routes to the summit, including:

• Yu Gil-jun's Tomb route: 3.5 km, about 1 hour 50 minutes (via the Vietnam War memorial, Yu Gil-jun's tomb and the viewpoint rock)
• Hyeonchungtap route: 4.2 km, about 2 hours (from the Animation High School in Changu-dong, via the memorial tower and Gopdol Spring)
• Sangok Elementary School route: 3.1 km, about 1 hour 50 minutes (via the reunification prayer cairn and Gomteo Spring)
• Lower Baealmi route: 2.9 km, about 1 hour 40 minutes
• Upper Baealmi route: 4.7 km, about 2 hours 10 minutes

The resting place of Yu Gil-jun

Yu Gil-jun (1856–1914), whose tomb lies on the trail, was among the first Koreans to study in the United States. His book Seoyu Gyeonmun (Observations on a Journey to the West), written in mixed Korean and Chinese script, introduced Western institutions and ideas and had a big influence on reform-minded thinkers of the late 19th century. Pause at the tomb on the way up and take in the fact that one of Korea's early modernisers lies here, overlooking the Han River.

Tripto tips

• Suggested loop: from Hanam Geomdansan Station, walk past the Animation High School, climb via Yu Gil-jun's tomb, and come down past Gopdol Spring and the memorial tower to end up back at the same station.
• Time needed: allow 3 hours 30 minutes to 4 hours for the round trip. The last stretch below the summit is a series of steps and steep climbs.
• When to go: spring for walks along the streams, autumn for silver grass and colour. Go on a clear morning for the sharpest views towards Dumulmeori.
• By subway: take Exit 3 of Hanam Geomdansan Station (Line 5) and walk towards the Animation High School.
• By bus: bus 9301 runs from Seoul Station Transfer Centre, 30-3 and 30-5 from Jamsil Station (Exits 8 and 9), 112 and 112-1 from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, and 30-3, 112 and 9301 from Cheonho Station (Exit 6).
• Fees: there is no entry charge and the trails are open all year.