Yeongguksa Temple

Walk for about 40 minutes up a valley on Cheontaesan in Yeongdong, North Chungcheong, and you reach Yeongguksa, where a thousand-year-old ginkgo stands guard over the temple courtyard. The tree reaches 31 m, and it is so old that one branch has touched the ground, rooted and grown into a tree of its own. Pagodas, a stupa and a stele, all designated Treasures, are scattered across the slopes, which makes exploring them half the pleasure.

History

Yeongguksa is thought to have been founded in the late Silla period. In the Goryeo era under King Munjong, the eminent monk Uicheon called it Gukcheongsa. Tradition says King Gongmin later took refuge here from the Red Turban invasions and prayed for the nation's peace, and after the invaders were driven out the temple was renamed Yeongguksa (寧國寺), "temple that brings peace to the nation". Nearby place names such as Oksaebong and Yukjogol recall a legend that the Silla king Hyoso fled here with his court.

The temple flourished when the national preceptor Wongak stayed here in the mid-Goryeo period and remained well known into the early Joseon era. It later declined, came close to closing in the early 20th century, and was rebuilt in 1934.

What to see

• Ginkgo tree of Yeongguksa: estimated at about 1,000 years old, around 31 m tall and 11 m in girth at chest height. One branch reaching west has touched the ground, rooted and grows like a separate tree. It was designated a Natural Monument in 1970, and legend says it cries out when the nation faces disaster.
• Three-storey Stone Pagoda (Treasure): a pagoda in the Unified Silla style in front of the main hall.
• Stupa of Yeongguksa (Treasure): a monk's reliquary on a pine-covered rise, with its octagonal roof stone and lotus carvings well preserved.
• Stele for National Preceptor Wongak (Treasure): a Goryeo-era stele recording the life of the monk who made the temple prosper.
• Three-storey Stone Pagoda on Mangtapbong (Treasure): built on a huge natural boulder on Mangtapbong, a small peak near the temple, which serves as its base — an unusual sight.

The valley on the way

The path from the Cheontaesan car park follows a stream. On the way you pass Jinju Falls and Samdan Falls (once called Yongchu Falls), where two streams meet and drop in three tiers. Cheontaesan itself (about 714 m) is known for a hiking route with a 75 m rock face climbed on fixed ropes, so hikers pass the temple on their way to the summit.

Tripto tips

• Walking distance: from the free Cheontaesan car park to the temple is about 1.1 km, roughly 40 minutes on foot. It is uphill most of the way, so wear comfortable shoes.
• Time needed: allow about 2 hours to see the temple, ginkgo and pagodas and walk back. Continuing to the summit adds more than two hours on the 4 km route, so plan half a day.
• Best time: late October to early November, when the ginkgo turns gold. Weekend parking fills up then, so go early.
• Hiking caution: the 75 m rope section on Course A to the summit can be dangerous after rain or for beginners. You do not need to go that far to see the temple.
• Getting there: public transport is difficult, so a car is easiest. Taxis are available from Yeongdong Station on the Gyeongbu Line.
• Etiquette: avoid taking photos inside the halls, and keep quiet during services.