Seoknamsa Temple, Anseong

On the north-eastern slopes of Seounsan, the highest mountain around Anseong, a long flight of stone steps climbs through the woods to a temple whose main hall looks down from the top terrace. Seoknamsa has only a handful of buildings, but its Yeongsanjeon Hall (Treasure), a fine example of early Joseon architecture, and its halls stacked on three stone terraces have earned it a place among the Eight Scenic Views of Anseong. It is also known as a filming location for the TV drama Goblin (Guardian: The Lonely and Great God).

A temple of hundreds of monks

According to the temple's history, Seoknamsa was founded in 680, in the 20th year of King Munmu of Silla; sources differ on whether the founder was the monk Seokseon or Damhwa Deoksa. In the reign of King Munseong of Silla, Master Yeomgeo of the Gajisan school stayed here and repaired it, and Master Hyegeo, a son of King Gwangjong of Goryeo, rebuilt it on a large scale. Students followed these famous teachers, and at one time hundreds of meditating monks lived here. King Sejo of Joseon is said to have issued a decree exempting the temple's monks from labour duties so they could devote themselves to practice. The temple burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s and was revived by Master Haewon in 1725, but it never regained its former size.

Yeongsanjeon and Daeungjeon

• Yeongsanjeon Hall (Treasure): a three-by-two-bay hall with a hipped-and-gabled roof. Its bracket sets show features between the early and middle Joseon periods, which makes it an important building for Korean architectural history. The temple chronicle dates it to 1562. Look under the eaves for the short, slightly drooping tips of the bracket arms. Inside are the 16 Arhats.
• Daeungjeon Hall (Gyeonggi Tangible Cultural Heritage): the three-by-three-bay main hall with a gabled roof and double eaves, standing on the highest terrace. It originally stood below Yeongsanjeon; when it was moved, a roof tile inscribed with a date in the Yongzheng era turned up, confirming a rebuilding in 1725. The gilded Buddha triad inside is thought to date from Goryeo, and the two-storey, palace-shaped canopy above it is a rare piece of decoration.
• Two five-storey stone pagodas: Goryeo-period pagodas about 2.3 m tall flank the stone steps to the right of Yeongsanjeon. Look for the small carved niche on the eastern one.

Beyond the courtyard

Two bell-shaped stone stupas stand at the temple entrance, and a path climbing to the left of the temple leads to a rock-carved Buddha (Gyeonggi Tangible Cultural Heritage). The carefully laid stone stairway up to the main hall is the temple's signature view, lined with azaleas in spring. Looking up from the foot of the steps at the rooflines of Daeungjeon and Yeongsanjeon is the classic Seoknamsa scene.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: the address is 3-120 Sangchonsaemal-gil, Geumgwang-myeon, Anseong. It is about 12 km from central Anseong; cross the Baeti Pass on local road 313 and follow a mountain road for about ten minutes. Public transport is inconvenient, so come by car or taxi.
• Time needed: 40–60 minutes for the temple itself, 1.5–2 hours if you also walk up to the rock-carved Buddha.
• Best time: late April to early May, when azaleas line the steps, and late October to early November, when the forest on Seounsan turns.
• Nearby: Cheongnyongsa Temple sits on the southern side of Seounsan, so you can visit both temples on either side of the mountain in one day.
• Etiquette: this is a working temple. Move quietly and avoid taking photos inside the halls. The steps are steep, so wear shoes with good grip.