Cheoneunsa Temple (Gurye)

Sitting on the road up to Nogodan in Jirisan, Cheoneunsa is counted with Hwaeomsa and Ssanggyesa among the three great temples of Jirisan. Its name means "the spring that hid", and stories of a spring, a serpent and a fire-proof signboard are attached to it. The temple is small, but it holds six national Treasures, so in a short visit you can see fine Buddhist architecture and painting together.

From Gamnosa to Cheoneunsa

Cheoneunsa dates back to the Silla period. Sources differ: some say it was founded in 828 by Deogun, a monk from India; others say it was founded by Doseon in 875 and later rebuilt by Deogun. It was first called Gamnosa, "sweet dew temple", after its clear, sweet spring, and under King Chungnyeol of Goryeo it was honoured as the leading Seon (Zen) temple of the south. It burned during the Imjin War of the 1590s and was rebuilt, and when it was extensively restored in 1679 under King Sukjong its name changed to Cheoneunsa. Legend says that during the rebuilding a large serpent kept appearing at the spring; when it was caught and killed, the spring dried up, hence the new name.

The signboard that flows like water

The signboard on the One Pillar Gate, reading "Jirisan Cheoneunsa", was written by Wongyo Yi Gwang-sa, a celebrated calligrapher of the late Joseon period. The story goes that after the spring vanished the temple kept catching fire, until Yi wrote the name in a script that seems to flow like water, and the fires stopped. Past the gate, you enter the temple over Piangyo, a bridge across the stream, through Suhongnu, the pavilion built on top of it.

What to look out for

• Geungnakbojeon: the main hall, dedicated to Amitabha Buddha, was made Treasure No. 2024 in 2019 for its flowing roofline and rich dancheong, the painted decoration on Korean timber buildings. A sign beside it notes that the TV drama Mr. Sunshine was filmed here.
• Amitabha altar painting: hanging behind the Buddha in the main hall, it was painted in 1776 by 14 monk painters led by Sinam. Every figure is labelled with its name, which makes it especially valuable to scholars.
• Gwaebul: a huge hanging scroll of Shakyamuni Buddha painted in 1673, also a Treasure. It is only displayed at major ceremonies.
• The sweet-dew spring: just past Suhongnu, the spring still flows.
• Behind the main hall: from the back of the temple, the ridges of Jirisan rise above the roofs, framing the temple and the mountain in one view.

Treasures in a small temple

The main hall and its altar painting are not the only Treasures here. The gilt-bronze portable shrine (a Treasure) is shaped like a miniature Buddhist hall: it holds two Buddha figures, and its back and side walls are hammered in relief with three Buddha assemblies, Vairocana, Bhaisajyaguru and Amitabha, while muscular guardian kings stand on either side of its doors. Seated statues of the bodhisattvas Avalokiteshvara and Mahasthamaprapta are also Treasures, and the Samjang painting, made in 1776 by the same monk painters as the altar painting, is a South Jeolla provincial heritage item. The halls are still used for daily worship, so look at the paintings and statues quietly.

Tripto tips

• Entry fee: the "park cultural heritage area" fee collected on provincial road 861 was abolished on 29 April 2019, after 32 years. Today there is no separate entry charge.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours is plenty for the gate, Suhongnu, the main hall and the Eungjinjeon, Palsangjeon and Gwaneumjeon halls.
• Walk further: the "Sangsaeng-ui Gil" trail around the reservoir below the temple extends your visit with a lakeside walk.
• Getting there: the temple is about 8 km north of Gurye town on road 861, the route up to Seongsamjae, the trailhead for Nogodan. The roughly 10 km from Cheoneunsa to Seongsamjae is steep with many hairpins, so drive carefully.
• Temple stay: the temple runs a temple stay programme; check dates and booking on its official website.