Square Tomb in Gujeong-dong, Gyeongju

On the road from central Gyeongju to Bulguksa Temple, at the foot of a low hill to the north, lies a tomb with a square mound. Almost all Silla tombs are round, and this is the only square tomb of the Silla period, so it is especially interesting if you have already seen a few of Gyeongju's burial mounds. The stones around its base are carved with the twelve zodiac guardians in armour.

What kind of tomb is it?

It dates from the Unified Silla period: a square mound about 9.5 m on each side and about 2 m high. Around the base, long dressed stones are stacked in three tiers, and on each side three upright slabs carry reliefs of the zodiac guardians. Inside is a stone chamber entered from the side, with the passage set towards the east end of the south wall. The platform for the coffin was built of stone slabs against the west wall.

The tomb was robbed in 1920, and the investigation that followed recovered a gilt-bronze coffin ornament, a silver belt ornament and horse fittings. Its owner is unknown, but the arrangement of the stones and the style of the carving suggest a royal tomb or the tomb of a top aristocrat from late Unified Silla (668–935). Square tombs with surrounding stones became common in early Goryeo, and this one is seen as their forerunner. It was designated a Historic Site in 1963.

Surrounding stones and the zodiac guardians

Protecting a burial mound with a ring of stones was a tradition going back to the Three Kingdoms period, and in Unified Silla the royal tombs of Gyeongju often added reliefs of the twelve zodiac guardians. These figures protect the twelve directions and hours, each animal assigned its own bearing, with the rat facing north. With human bodies, animal heads and armour, they look like a bodyguard surrounding the tomb. On round royal tombs they stand in a circle; here they are split into groups of three on each side of the square mound, showing the same tradition in a different form. Some scholars link the tomb to a particular king, but nothing has been confirmed.

The missing corner stones

Each corner originally had its own pillar stone. One carved with a foreigner from Central Asia and a lion was moved to Gyeongju National Museum, which suggests that the corners were decorated with lions and guardian figures. The corner stones you see on the tomb today are replacements. Seeing the originals at the museum first helps you imagine how the tomb once looked.

Tripto tips

• Access: an open site with no admission charge. Walk round the mound and try to identify all twelve zodiac animals, three on each side. The carvings show up best in the low-angled light of morning or late afternoon.
• Time needed: 15–30 minutes is enough. A paved path and forecourt lead right up to the tomb, so it is an easy walk.
• Getting there: the site is around San 41, Gujeong-dong, Gyeongju, about 3–4 km from Bulguksa, so it is an easy stop on the way to the temple.
• Combine with: look for the original corner stone at Gyeongju National Museum, then continue to Bulguksa and Seokguram for a full day.
• Best time: from spring to autumn, when the grass is green.