Beopcheonsa Temple Site, Wonju

In Buron-myeon, Wonju, not far from the South Han River, a wide temple site holds a National Treasure that came home after more than 110 years away. Beopcheonsa was the monastery where State Preceptor Jigwang, Haerin (984–1070), the spiritual mentor of the Goryeo court under King Munjong, became a monk and where he died. His memorial stele, a National Treasure, still stands in its original place, and next to it the Beopcheonsa Temple Site Exhibition Hall now houses his stupa, back after a long and troubled journey.

History: centre of the Beopsang school

Beopcheonsa was founded in Unified Silla and flourished under Goryeo. The earliest record of it dates from 928, and in the Goryeo period it was a leading temple of the influential Beopsang (Yogacara) school, supported by aristocratic families. Jigwang entered the monastery as a young man and, after serving as royal and state preceptor, died here in 1070.

In the early Joseon period the scholar Yu Bang-seon taught here, and pupils such as Han Myeong-hoe, Seo Geo-jeong and Gwon Ram are said to have studied with him. Heo Gyun, best known as the author of the novel Hong Gil-dong, visited and wrote an account of the temple, which tells us it burned during the Imjin War of the 1590s and was never rebuilt. The site became a national Historic Site in 2005.

The long journey of Jigwang's stupa

Unlike most Goryeo stupas, which are octagonal, Jigwang's stupa is built on a square plan and is covered in carvings of Buddhas, bodhisattvas and phoenixes, right up to the underside of the roof. Its recent history reads like a summary of modern Korean history:

• In 1911 it was dismantled by Japanese collectors and taken to Seoul, and in 1912 it was shipped to Osaka in Japan before being returned.
• In 1915 it was moved into the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace; during the Korean War it was badly damaged by bombing and later pieced back together.
• In 2016 it was fully dismantled for about five years of conservation.
• In August 2023 it returned to Wonju in pieces, and it was reassembled on a seismic-isolation base inside the exhibition hall, with restoration completed in November 2024.

What to see

• Stele of State Preceptor Jigwang (National Treasure): erected in 1085. The tortoise base has a dragon's face, and each panel of its shell is decorated with the character for "king". The crown-shaped capstone carries a lotus. The real highlight is on the narrow sides of the stele: two dragons flying through clouds, carved in remarkable detail, so walk round to see them.
• Exhibition hall: the stupa stands inside, and galleries on two floors display finds from the excavations. A guide can help you pick out the carvings on the stupa.
• Temple grounds and flagpole supports: you can walk among the restored building platforms and pillar bases, and towards the village stands a simple pair of flagpole supports, probably from Unified Silla.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: the hall opens at 09:00, last entry 17:00 (possibly 30 minutes earlier from December to February). Closed on Mondays, 1 January, the days of Seollal and Chuseok, and the day after public holidays. Admission is free; guides are available 10:00–17:00. Tel. +82 33-737-2808.
• Time needed: 1–1.5 hours for the hall and the site.
• Getting there: the address is 50-15 Beopcheonsaji-gil, Buron-myeon, Wonju. By car it is about 22 minutes from Munmak IC or 24 minutes from Yeoju IC on the Yeongdong Expressway. Bus 55 runs from near Wonju Intercity and Express Bus Terminal, but services are infrequent, so check times with Wonju's transport information centre.
• Combine with: the Geodonsa Temple Site, also in Buron-myeon, has its own visitor centre (closed Mondays and Thursdays), so you can see Wonju's two great abandoned temple sites in one day.
• Best time: spring and autumn are ideal for walking the open grassland. There is little shade, so bring a hat in summer.