Cheonseongsan Mountain

Cheonseongsan rises to 920 m east of Yangsan, and what sets it apart is the summit: open grassland and upland marshes instead of forest. Its name comes from a legend of the monk Wonhyo turning a thousand monks into saints, and its ridge on the Nakdong range, with azaleas in spring and pampas grass in autumn, is Yangsan's signature hike.

A thousand saints and many names

The name Cheonseong, "a thousand saints", recalls the story that Wonhyo taught the Avatamsaka Sutra to a thousand monks from Tang China until all of them became saints. Old records such as the geography section of the Annals of King Sejong call it Wonjeoksan, and its valleys and rocks earned it the nickname Sogeumgang, "little Geumgangsan". The main peak used to be called Wonhyosan and the second peak Cheonseongsan; Yangsan City merged the names, so today there is Peak 1, Wonhyobong (920.17 m), and Peak 2, Birobong (852.2 m).

Where rivers begin

Cheonseongsan is a high point on the Nakdong range as it runs south towards Geumjeongsan. Several streams, including the Hoeyagang, Yongyeoncheon and Jujincheon, rise on its slopes, which is why it has long been seen as the source of Yangsan's water, and why it has so many deep valleys and waterfalls.

Grassland and marshes on the top

The summit area holds upland wetlands such as Hwaeomneup and Milbanneup, home to salamanders and other rare species. When the Gyeongbu high-speed railway's Wonhyo Tunnel was routed under the mountain, the Buddhist nun Jiyul, environmental groups and citizens sued to stop construction to protect the marshes. The courts eventually ruled for the builders, but the "salamander lawsuit" became a landmark of Korea's environmental movement. Today the wetlands can only be visited on boardwalks and marked trails.

Wonhyobong, a former minefield

The area around Wonhyobong once housed a military base, and mines were laid there in 1968 and 1987. It was off-limits for years, and in 2020 some trails were closed again for mine clearance. Wonhyobong is now open to hikers, but never step past barbed wire or mine warning signs.

What to see

• Views from Wonhyobong: on clear days you can see towards both the East Sea and the South Sea. It is known as one of the first places on the mainland to see the New Year sunrise, so 1 January brings crowds of hikers.
• Hwaeomneup and Hwaeombeol: the wide grassland between Wonhyobong and Birobong, where pampas grass waves in autumn.
• Wonhyoam Hermitage: a hermitage below Wonhyobong, reachable by car on the road from Daeseok Reservoir.
• Naewonsa Valley and Hongnyong Falls: the Naewonsa valley, Hongnyongsa Temple and Hongnyong Falls on the lower slopes combine well with a hike.

Tripto tips

• Shortest route: drive up to the Wonhyoam car park and climb to the ridge; Wonhyobong and Hwaeombeol are then fairly close. The ridge on to Birobong has few big ups and downs.
• Best seasons: azaleas and royal azaleas in April–May, pampas grass in September–October. Snow-covered grassland is beautiful in winter, but the wind on the ridge is fierce.
• Time needed: 2–3 hours for Wonhyobong and Hwaeombeol from Wonhyoam; allow a full day for a traverse down to the Naewonsa valley.
• Watch out: stay on marked trails; some areas are closed to protect the wetlands and because of the mine risk. Check Yangsan City notices for trail closures before you go.