Eonyang Alps Market

Eonyang Alps Market is a traditional market in Eonyang-eup, Ulju-gun, Ulsan, first held in 1915 and still going more than a century later. It is open every day, but on market days – dates ending in 2 and 7 – extra stalls fill the arcade and the lanes around it. Close to KTX Ulsan Station and in the heart of a town known for grilled bulgogi, it pairs well with Eonyangeupseong walled town for a half-day trip.

Where seven counties traded

Eonyang Market was once called the "Seven Towns Market" because produce from seven counties – Cheongdo, Miryang, Dongnae, Yangsan, Gyeongju, Yeongcheon and Ulsan – came together here. About forty years ago a water-parsley field beside the market was filled in and tin roofs were put up on posts to keep shoppers dry, the start of today's arcade. The single large market later split into several parts: the daily general market in a commercial building, the Eonyang Public Market across the Namcheon stream, and the arcaded Eonyang Market.

Walking the market

To help traditional markets compete with big discount stores, Ulsan ran a renovation programme, and a 177 m arcade was completed in 2009. The site covers about 3,386 m² with more than 400 shops – larger than you might expect, and an hour goes quickly.

• Arcaded lanes: covered aisles of fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, bread, clothing and traditional medicinal herbs.
• Food: small eateries and stalls sell market staples such as savoury pancakes, tteokbokki and rice soups.
• Market-day stalls: on the 2s and 7s, stalls spill out into the lanes beyond the arcade and the market gets much busier.

Eonyang bulgogi and the walled town

Eonyang is known for Eonyang bulgogi – thin slices of seasoned beef grilled over a wire rack – and there are several bulgogi restaurants within a few hundred metres of the market. About 700 m away is Eonyangeupseong, a Joseon-era stone-walled town on flat ground, now a designated Historic Site and good for a walk along the walls. It enclosed the government office of Joseon-era Eonyang county, so the market has always stood at the heart of the town. To the west rise the Yeongnam Alps, a cluster of peaks over 1,000 m such as Gajisan, Sinbulsan and Ganwolsan. With extra time you can drive about 6.5 km north to the Bangudae petroglyphs.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: an hour for the market; allow half a day with a bulgogi meal and a walk around Eonyangeupseong.
• Market days: the 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd and 27th are the busiest. The market generally opens 08:00–19:00, but hours vary by shop.
• Getting there: about 2 km from KTX Ulsan Station, a short taxi ride; Eonyang Intercity Bus Terminal is also close by.
• Parking and facilities: the public car park is free for the first 2 hours, then KRW 100 per 10 minutes. There are toilets in the market, and the arcade keeps you dry on rainy days.
• Combine it with: a hike in the Yeongnam Alps or the silver grass of Ganwoljae – stop here before or after for food and shopping.