Gaesimsa Temple

Gaesimsa is a small temple halfway up Sangwangsan (307 m) in Seosan, South Chungcheong, famous for buildings whose pillars are crooked tree trunks left in their natural shape. Its main hall (Treasure), rebuilt in 1484, keeps its early Joseon form, and in late April the courtyard fills with pale green "green cherry" blossoms and pink double cherry blossoms. Its name means "temple that opens the mind".

From Baekje to Joseon

The temple is said to have been founded in 654, the 14th year of King Uija of Baekje, by the monk Hyegam, who called it Gaewonsa. Old temple records also give the fifth year of Silla's Queen Jindeok (651), so the dates do not quite match. In 1350 the monk Cheoneung rebuilt it and renamed it Gaesimsa. When the main hall was dismantled for repairs in 1941, records found inside showed it had been rebuilt in 1484, the 15th year of King Seongjong. Today it is a branch temple of Sudeoksa.

A temple of crooked pillars

• Main hall (Treasure): A three-by-three-bay building with a gabled roof and multi-cluster brackets set between the columns as well as on top of them. It is an important counterpart to the Geungnakjeon at Muwisa in Gangjin, built in the same early Joseon period but with brackets only on the columns. It has kept its 1484 form almost unchanged.
• Simgeomdang: The monks' quarters, whose name means "hall for seeking the sword of wisdom that cuts through delusion". Curved, untrimmed timbers serve as its pillars and beams, and only the kitchen section is a later addition. You will find the same crooked pillars in the bell pavilion and other buildings around the temple.
• Wooden seated Amitabha Buddha (Treasure): Records found inside the statue in 2004 show that it was restored in 1280, under King Chungnyeol of Goryeo, so it was made earlier still. Its neat yet powerful body and somewhat foreign-looking face are striking.
• Buddhist paintings: The temple holds a large hanging scroll of the Vulture Peak assembly (Treasure), painted in 1772 to pray for the long life of the king, queen and crown prince, and paintings of the Five Directional Emperors and the Four Messengers (Treasure), painted by the monk-artist Ilho in 1676. These are the earliest dated paintings of their kind made to decorate a ritual space.

The pond and the log bridge

Before you reach the courtyard, a rectangular pond lies in front of Anyangnu Pavilion, crossed in the middle by a bridge made of a single log. Over the bridge and up under the pavilion, which stands on a stone platform about 2 m high, the main courtyard finally opens up. The pavilion carries a signboard reading "Sangwangsan Gaesimsa".

Tripto tips

• Green cherry blossoms: The pale green blossoms usually open in front of Myeongbujeon Hall in late April, after the ordinary cherry trees have finished. Timing varies with the weather each year, so check bloom reports before you go. Weekends in this season bring heavy traffic and full car parks.
• Walking: From the lower car park a forest path follows a stream and climbs stone steps to the temple. Wear comfortable shoes.
• Time needed: About an hour for the temple, an hour and a half if you linger by the pond and on the forest path.
• Combine it with: A mountain path of about 4.7 km leads to the Seosan rock-carved Buddha triad at Yonghyeon-ri and the Bowonsa Temple Site, and Haemieupseong Fortress is a short drive away.
• Getting there: Public transport means a bus from Seosan towards Unsan and is not very convenient, so a car is easier.