Hwajinpo Beach

Hwajinpo Beach sits on the northern coast of Goseong in Gangwon, on the strip of sand between the open sea and Hwajinpo, the largest lagoon on Korea's east coast. Behind its 1.7 km of white sand lie pine woods and the lake, and on the hills above stand the former holiday villas of Kim Il-sung, Syngman Rhee and Lee Ki-poong. In half a day you can swim, walk around the lagoon and take in a chapter of the peninsula's division.

A sandbar between lake and sea

The beach opened in 1973. It is about 1.7 km long and roughly 70 m wide, and the water stays shallow at 1–1.5 m, which makes it easy with children. The sand formed over a very long time from crushed shells and rock, so it is unusually white and squeaks underfoot. The beach is also known for having few insects.

Directly behind it is Hwajinpo Lake, a former bay that was cut off from the sea by a sandbar. Fresh water and seawater mix here, and the shoreline runs to about 16 km. The name is said to come from the sweetbriar roses that bloom along its banks. The lagoon was listed as a Gangwon provincial monument in 1971, and since the 1970s migratory birds such as whooper swans, a protected natural monument, and mallards have wintered here.

Geumgudo Island and old stories

About 500 m offshore lies Geumgudo, a small island covered in bamboo. It is said to have served as a Silla naval base: part of a stone wall survives on its northern side, and a 1997 survey found roof-tile fragments and foundation stones. A legend also claims it holds the tomb of King Gwanggaeto.

The lake has its own legend. A greedy rich man named Yi Hwa-jin mocked a monk who came asking for alms, and his house and village sank beneath the water to form the lake. Only his kind daughter-in-law, who had tried to give the monk something in secret, survived.

Three villas on the hill

Hwajinpo lies north of the 38th parallel, so until the Korean War it was North Korean territory. The round two-storey stone building on the hill above the beach was built around 1935 by the missionary Sherwood Hall as a holiday house. Kim Il-sung spent summers here with his family from 1948 to 1950, and it became known as the Kim Il-sung Villa. Today it is a history and security exhibition hall called "Hwajinpo Castle".

After the war the area passed to the South, and President Syngman Rhee and Vice President Lee Ki-poong also built villas by the lake. The Syngman Rhee Villa keeps his bedroom, study and belongings such as his glasses and passport, while the memorial hall next door shows his calligraphy and clothing. The Kim Il-sung Villa is only about 600 m from the beach, and the other two stand along the lakeshore. The area also appeared in the 2000 drama "Autumn in My Heart".

Tripto tips

• When to go: come during the summer opening period for swimming; Goseong County announces the dates each year. Early summer brings the sweetbriar roses, and winter brings swans to the lagoon.
• Time needed: 2–3 hours covers a beach walk and the villas. Allow half a day if you want to cycle around the lake.
• Getting there: the beach is about 40 km north of central Sokcho along National Route 7. Without a car, take a bus towards Ganseong or Geojin in Goseong and switch to a taxi. It combines well with a trip to the Goseong Unification Observatory.
• Safety: only swim during the opening period and in the marked zone, when lifeguards are on duty.
• Information: Hwajinpo Tourist Information Center, 033-680-3677.