Suamgol Observatory

On the slopes of Uamsan, just east of central Cheongju, an observation deck sits above Suamgol, a hillside village built by refugees during the Korean War. By day you look over a dense patchwork of roofs and apartment blocks towards distant ridges; after sunset the city lights spread out below, which makes it one of Cheongju's favourite spots for sunsets and night views. The mural alleys and a street of cafés lie just below, so it is easy to combine the three.

From refugee village to drama set

Suamgol grew up during the Korean War, when refugees built homes on the slopes of Uamsan. It long remained a run-down hillside neighbourhood, and when the city launched a housing-improvement scheme in the early 2000s many residents moved away. Then, around 2007–2008, when local artists painted murals on its walls as part of a public art project. Soon after, the dramas Cain and Abel and KBS's Baker King, Kim Tak-gu (2010) were filmed here, and visitors started arriving from all over the country. A few restaurants and cafés in the alleys still make use of former filming sets.

The observatory and around

• Observation deck: a wooden deck with railings and a wide view over central Cheongju. It faces west, so the sun sets straight ahead over the city, and there is a photo spot with a heart-shaped bench and sculpture.
• Mural alleys: narrow lanes with the remaining murals run down below the deck. People still live in these houses, so walk through quietly.
• Café street: right below the observatory, cafés with big windows look out over the city, a good place to sit and watch the lights come on.

Tripto tips

• Best time: arrive 30 minutes to an hour before sunset to see the sunset and the night view in one go.
• Time needed: 20–30 minutes for the observatory alone; 1 to 1.5 hours with the mural alleys and a café stop.
• Fees: it is an open-air deck with no admission charge.
• Parking: there is hardly any parking at the observatory itself. Leave the car lower down in Suamgol or near Samil Park and walk up for about 10 minutes.
• Watch out for: the alleys are steep, with plenty of steps. In the evening, keep your voice down for the residents.

Nearby

• National Museum of Cheongju: at the foot of Uamsan, close to Suamgol. Its children's museum lets you handle and make replicas of heritage objects.
• Sangdangsanseong Fortress: about 4 km north-east of Suamgol, a stone mountain fortress more than 4 km round, built to enclose a whole valley. It probably began as an earthen fort in the Baekje period, was repaired during the Imjin War and rebuilt in stone under King Sukjong of Joseon.
• Iron flagpole at the Yongdusa Temple Site: a 12.7 m iron pole standing in the city centre, designated a National Treasure. Only three iron flagpoles of this kind survive in Korea.
• Cheongju Central Park: a downtown park with an ancient ginkgo said to be around a thousand years old and the Joseon-era headquarters of the Chungcheong provincial army commander.