Deokjusanseong Fortress, Jecheon

Drive along the Songgye valley on the south side of Woraksan and a stone gate with an arched opening suddenly appears beside the road. Deokjusanseong is a mountain fortress that once blocked the route between Mungyeong and Chungju. Most of its walls have fallen, but three Joseon-era gates, the South, East and North Gates, still stand. It lies on the way to the Deokjugol trails of Woraksan National Park and along the Songgye valley drive, so it is easy to combine with either.

History: a fortress across the road

The fortress is said to have been built of stone in the Unified Silla period, with an inner and an outer circuit. There are five layers of wall in all, inside and out, built at different times, which makes it valuable for the study of Korean fortifications. The walls once ran for 32,670 cheok, about 9.8 km. The name links it to Deokjusa Temple and the Deokjugol valley inside.

Two stories are told about it. One says that when the Mongol army attacked Chungju in 1256, clouds, wind and hail suddenly swept in and the invaders fled, calling it a land protected by the gods. The other says that late in the Joseon period Empress Myeongseong had gates built here as a refuge, in case she lost her power struggle with the regent Heungseon Daewongun. The fortress was listed as a North Chungcheong monument in 1983.

What to see

• South Gate: an arched gate built on the road from Dongchang to Mungyeong, with double-faced stone walls running off on either side. With its gate tower and the peaks of Woraksan behind, it is the most photogenic spot.
• East Gate: at the entrance to Deokjugol, similar in style to the South Gate.
• North Gate: among the houses of Saeteomal hamlet. It is arched on both faces, and the keystone is carved with a taegeuk (yin-yang) symbol.
• Walls: the first wall you meet on entering Deokjugol is said to be the outer circuit, and the one you see while climbing from Deokjusa towards the rock-carved Buddha is the inner one. In autumn the slopes along the walls turn red and gold.

Tripto tips

• Access: the gates and walls are open-air ruins that can be seen at any time. Some national park trails may close during wildfire-prevention periods, so check the Korea National Park Service website.
• Hiking: the path from Deokjugol past Deokjusa to the rock-carved Buddha of Deokjusa (a Treasure) is fairly gentle. It continues via Songgye junction to Yeongbong, the main peak of Woraksan. About 0.7 km from the South Gate, the Sajabinsinsa temple site has a nine-storey pagoda (a Treasure) built in 1022, unusual for the four lions holding it up and the small seated Buddha in a hood between them.
• Time needed: 30 minutes to 1 hour for the gates, or half a day with the walk to Deokjusa and the Buddha.
• Best time: mid-to-late October for autumn leaves, and May–June for fresh greenery.
• Getting there: the fortress is in Songgye-ri, Hansu-myeon, Jecheon. City buses run towards Songgye from the Chungju side, but services are infrequent, so check the timetable. By car you can see the gates one after another along the valley. In summer the Songgye valley is popular for paddling, so expect traffic on weekend afternoons.