Buryeonggyegok Valley

Inland from Uljin, Buryeonggyegok Valley winds for about 15 km, with pale rock cliffs rising on both sides of clear water. The rock here is gneiss formed some 2 billion years ago, among the oldest on the Korean Peninsula. The valley was designated a national Scenic Site in 1979 and became a geosite of the Gyeongbuk East Coast National Geopark in 2017.

The name and Buryeongsa Temple

The valley takes its name from Buryeongsa, an old temple tucked inside it. According to tradition, a Buddha-shaped rock on the ridge west of the temple casts its shadow onto the temple pond, hence the name, "shadow of the Buddha". The temple is said to date from the reign of Queen Jindeok of Silla and makes an easy stop on a drive through the valley.

Reading 2-billion-year-old rock

• Augen gneiss: granitic gneiss transformed by heat and pressure deep underground. Look for bright minerals gathered into round, eye-like spots.
• Potholes: round hollows ground into the bedrock by pebbles spinning in the current. They are easiest to see where the water is shallow.
• Tors: on the slopes and ridges, rock has weathered along its joints into tower- and pillar-like shapes. The best-known are Buddha Rock on the ridge and Love Rock, said to look like an embracing couple.

The stream flows east, joins the Wangpicheon and reaches the East Sea. That long erosion stripped away the rock lying on top of the gneiss and exposed the white cliffs you see today.

How to enjoy the valley

Buryeonggyegok-ro runs along the valley, so you can see a different view at every bend from the car. The water is clear, shallow and slow in many places, which draws families in summer, when the county posts lifeguards. There are campsites and glamping sites nearby. In autumn the trees above the cliffs turn colour against the pale rock.

Nearby

• Buryeongsa Temple: set in the woods deeper in the valley. See for yourself whether the Buddha Rock really casts its shadow onto the temple pond.
• Seongnyugul Cave: a limestone cave in Geunnam-myeon, downstream on the Wangpicheon, an easy stop as you head back towards the East Sea.
• Geopark guiding: the Uljin Geopark Centre runs guided walks to the geosites. With someone explaining the patterns and landforms, the same scenery suddenly looks very different.

Tripto tips

• Opening and fees: open at all times, every day, with no entry fee. Parking and toilets are available.
• Time needed: about 1 hour to drive the valley road with a few stops, 2–3 hours if you add Buryeongsa Temple.
• Best time: July–August for paddling, mid-October to early November for autumn colours.
• Getting there: the valley road runs west from central Uljin, so a car is by far the easiest option. Without one, a taxi from Uljin town is the realistic choice.
• Watch out for: slippery rocks and water that rises quickly after rain. Only go in the water in designated areas.
• Information: Uljin Geopark Centre, +82 54-783-9195