Danseoksan

At 827 m, Danseoksan is the highest mountain in Gyeongju. Its name, "cut-stone mountain", comes from the legend that the young general-to-be Kim Yu-sin split a boulder here with a sacred sword, and near the summit there really is a rock cleft as if by a blade. Halfway up, the rock-carved Buddhas of Sinseonsa, cut into the cliffs by Silla people in the 7th century and now a National Treasure, let you combine a mountain hike with one of Korea's earliest cave shrines.

Kim Yu-sin and the split rock

According to the story handed down, a 17-year-old Kim Yu-sin, distressed by raids from Goguryeo, Baekje and the Malgal, entered a stone cave on Mount Jungak to pray for the strength to defend his country. On the fourth day an old man in hemp clothes appeared, handed him a secret method and a precious sword, and told him to use them only in a righteous cause. Jungak has long been identified with Danseoksan, and the legend that Kim trained here and cut a rock in two gave the mountain its name. Near the top you can see the large, cleanly split boulder for yourself.

The rock-carved Buddhas of Sinseonsa

Just above Sinseonsa Temple, high rock walls rise in a U shape, enclosing a space like a room. Silla carvers cut ten figures of Buddhas, bodhisattvas and others into these faces, and the space was probably roofed over to serve as a cave worship hall. As the earliest surviving form of a Korean cave temple, the site was designated a National Treasure in 1979 (formerly No. 199). The carving style dates to the first half of the 7th century.

• Standing Buddha: on a separate rock to the north-east stands an 8.2 m Buddha with a round, smiling face, the centrepiece of the group.
• Bodhisattvas: on the east face a 6 m bodhisattva holds a vase; together with a bodhisattva on the south face they form a triad.
• An inscription of some 400 characters: next to the southern bodhisattva, a worn text records that one stone Maitreya and two bodhisattvas were carved at Sinseonsa, which is how the temple's name is known.
• Seven figures on the north face: shallow carvings of Buddhas, bodhisattvas and a pensive bodhisattva. All except the pensive figure point east with their left hands, as if guiding you towards the main Buddha.
• Silla worshippers: lower down, two figures in sock-shaped hats make offerings beside a monk, a rare glimpse of how Silla people dressed.

The hike

The most popular route starts at the Sinseonsa car park. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the temple and roughly another hour from there to the summit; the round trip is around three hours. The lower forest path is paved but fairly steep, and the section near the top is rocky, so watch your footing.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 60–90 minutes if you only visit the rock carvings, 3–4 hours including the summit.
• When to go: fresh green in April–May and autumn colour in October–November make for the best walking. In winter the rocky summit section can ice over, so bring crampons.
• Getting there: the mountain is in Geoncheon-eup, Gyeongju, and a car is the easiest way to reach the trailhead car park at Sinseonsa. If you rely on public transport, buses may be infrequent, so check times in a map app before you go.
• Etiquette: Sinseonsa is a working temple. Keep your voice down, and if someone is praying before the carvings, wait before taking photos.
• What to bring: carry enough water and snacks, and wear gloves and boots with good grip for the rocky stretches.