Hwarang Hill

Far west of central Gyeongju, in Sannae-myeon, a wide meadow spreads across the southern slopes of Dansoksan (827.2 m). Lawns dotted with old pines, a mountain reservoir and the clifftop Meditation Rock make up Hwarang Hill. It shows a completely different side of Gyeongju from the Silla monuments in town: a place to slow down high up in the hills.

The mountain of the hwarang

Dansoksan is linked to the legend of Kim Yu-sin, the great Silla general, who is said to have trained here as a young man and split a boulder with his sword. The mountain's name means "the mountain where the rock was cut", and the hill takes its name from the hwarang, Silla's elite corps of young men. At the reservoir near the entrance, Suuiji, local tradition says Kim Yu-sin and his hwarang first watered their horses after training and only then drank from their cupped hands. The upper slopes of the mountain are steep, but on the south side, where the hill lies, the ground levels out into broad grassland.

What to see

• Meditation Rock: a rock jutting out over the edge of a cliff and the most popular spot on the hill. Stand on it and you look straight down on a small village ringed by mountains and terraced rice paddies stepping down the valley.
• Meadow and pines: crooked pines stand here and there on the gentle lawns, giving the slope the look of upland pasture. A swing hung from one of the pine branches is a favourite photo spot.
• Suuiji reservoir: the first thing you see near the car park. Tables set by the water's edge make a popular photo backdrop with the still water and the hills.
• Drama location: the meadow where Kang-ho plays with the village children in the 2023 JTBC drama The Good Bad Mother was filmed here.

Good to know

Hwarang Hill charges an entry fee, and during opening hours you can walk and picnic but nothing more. Camping and sleeping in your car are not allowed. Part of the hill is used as a park golf course. Dogs are welcome.

Dansoksan and Sinseonsa

Dansoksan, on whose slopes Hwarang Hill lies, is generally counted as the highest mountain in Gyeongju, and many hikers climb to its 827.2 m summit. The most popular trail starts at the Sinseonsa car park and takes about 20 minutes to reach the small temple. On the rock face behind Sinseonsa is a group of Buddhist figures carved in the Silla period, well worth a detour if you are following the story of the hwarang and Kim Yu-sin. Enjoy the meadow at Hwarang Hill first, then, if you have time, walk the path towards Sinseonsa to get a better feel for this mountain of the Silla warriors.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 1–2 hours is plenty for the reservoir, the meadow and Meditation Rock. There is quite a walk uphill from the entrance, so wear comfortable shoes.
• Fees and hours: listed as open 09:00–18:00 every day. Entry is KRW 2,000 per person for anyone aged 36 months and over, and parking is free. Prices can change, so check before you go.
• Best time: spring cherry blossom, early summer when the grass is lush, and autumn when the terraced paddies below turn gold. Clear mornings give the best light at Meditation Rock.
• Getting there: public transport does not reach it, so you need a car. The route heads west from Gyeongju through Sannae-myeon and up into the hills.
• Take care: the end of Meditation Rock is a sheer drop. Stay back from the edge on windy days or after rain.