Hwawangsan Mountain

Hwawangsan rises to 756 m east of Changnyeong town, and its broad summit plateau turns silver with pampas grass in autumn and pink with azaleas in spring. A stone wall about 2.6 km around, Hwawangsanseong Fortress, encloses that plateau, so you get the rare sight of ramparts and a sea of grass together on a mountaintop. It has been a county park since 1984.

Mountain of fire, three ponds

As the character for fire (hwa) in its name suggests, Hwawangsan is said to have been a volcano long ago, and the three ponds on the summit plateau are traditionally described as old craters. The founding legend of Gwallyongsa Temple on the facing mountain says the monk Wonhyo saw nine dragons rise into the sky from these ponds, which ties the two mountains into one story.

The fortress: from Gaya to the Imjin War

Changnyeong Hwawangsanseong is a national Historic Site. Its first construction date is unknown, but it is thought to be older than the Three Kingdoms period, probably a Gaya fortress. It backs onto the rocky northern summit and encloses the wide flat ground between the southern peaks; the east and west gates and the site of a pond remain. It lost its role under King Sejong, but during the Imjin War the militia leader Gwak Jae-u used it as a base to stop the Japanese advance. Overlooking the rice plains of the middle Nakdong River, it was always a strategic spot.

Grass and azaleas

• Autumn pampas grass: the whole plateau inside the walls is grassland. From late September through October it ripples silver, best against the low evening sun.
• Spring azaleas: in April azaleas bloom along the ridge east of the summit, where the set of the TV drama Heo Jun still stands; many hikers combine the two.
• Views from the walls: walking the ramparts gives views over Changnyeong town and the fields towards the Nakdong.

Gwallyongsa and Yongseondae on the Okcheon side

The eastern Okcheon route passes Gwallyongsa Temple on the slopes of Gwallyongsan. Its Yaksajeon Hall, the only building to survive the Imjin War, and its main hall are both Treasures, and on a rock spur above the temple, Yongseondae, a Unified Silla stone seated Buddha (Treasure) gazes out over the plains. The temple area is also a national Scenic Site, so combining it with Hwawangsan gives you a fortress, grassland and an old temple in one day.

Why the grass burning stopped

From 1995, a festival on the first full moon of the lunar year set the grass plateau alight. On 9 February 2009 a sudden gust carried the flames over the firebreak: seven people died and around 60 were injured, and the festival was scrapped for good. The grassland is now left to the seasons, without fire.

Tripto tips

• Trails: the Jahagok trailhead on the Changnyeong town side is the shortest route to the plateau and the south gate; it starts steep but is short. The Okcheon trailhead to the east has a large car park and passes Gwallyongsa Temple for more varied scenery. Allow around 3 hours for a round trip from Jahagok.
• Best time: azaleas in April, pampas grass from late September to October; car parks fill early on autumn weekends.
• Getting there: the Jahagok trailhead is close to central Changnyeong, where the intercity bus terminal is. Okcheon is easier by car.
• Watch out: the plateau has almost no shade and is windy. During spring and autumn fire-prevention periods some trails may close, so check Changnyeong County notices, and never use any open flame on the mountain.