Yongyeonsa Temple

Tucked into a deep valley on the northern slopes of Biseulsan, Yongyeonsa is one of the Korean temples with a Jeongmyeol Bogung, a hall dedicated to relics of the historical Buddha. The stone platform that holds the relics, the Geumgang Gyedan (a national Treasure), ranks alongside those at Tongdosa and Geumsansa as one of the country's finest stone ordination platforms. The temple is reachable by city bus from Daegu, yet once you walk in through the forest it feels like a quiet mountain monastery.

A temple born from a dragon pond

The name means "dragon pond". According to the temple, the monk Boyang founded it in 912, the first year of King Sindeok of Silla, although some sources give 914. Today's temple goes back to a rebuilding in 1603, after it burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s: on the orders of the warrior monk Samyeong, the monks Injam, Tanok and Gyeongcheon raised it again. Another fire in 1650 destroyed everything except the Bogwang Pavilion, and the monks Gyehwan and Yeohwi rebuilt the temple the following year.

The temple also keeps a legend of seven dragons. After seven young villagers died fighting off invaders, the village pond began to dry up, and it only filled again once the people held rites for their spirits. Seven young dragons then lived in the pond and protected the village. A thousand years later, when it was time to rise to heaven, they fought over who would go first, and only four made it.

The relic platform and the hall without a Buddha

The main reason to come is the Geumgang Gyedan at the very back of the grounds, enclosed by a stone wall. A gyedan is a platform where monks receive the precepts at ordination, and this one holds relics of the Buddha. During the invasions of the 1590s the Tongdosa relics were moved from place to place for safety; after the war, Cheongjin, a disciple of Samyeong, is said to have returned one of the two relics to Tongdosa and enshrined the other here. A stele at the temple shows that the platform was completed in 1613, the fifth year of King Gwanghaegun.

• Two-tier base and bell-shaped body: a plain bell-shaped body sits on a broad two-tier base, crowned by a large finial carved like a lotus bud.
• Guardian figures: a Heavenly King stands at each corner of the lower tier, and the eight guardian deities are carved in relief on the four sides of the upper tier. Step closer and look at their faces one by one.
• Jeongmyeol Bogung: the hall in front of the platform has no Buddha statue. Because the relic platform itself is the object of worship, people bow towards it from inside the hall.

More to see in the grounds

• Geungnakjeon Hall: built in 1728 with a gabled roof and multi-bracket eaves, it is a Daegu tangible cultural heritage site. The wooden Amitabha triad inside, with the objects sealed within the statues, is a national Treasure.
• Three-storey stone pagoda: in the courtyard in front of Geungnakjeon, also listed as Daegu cultural heritage.
• Stupas: 14 stupas holding the remains of eminent monks stand around the temple.
• Bogwang Pavilion: the only building said to have survived the 1650 fire.

Tripto tips

• When to go: the approach is at its best with fresh green in May and June and autumn colours from late October to early November. The forest road into the temple links up with the Biseulsan hiking trails, so it is also good for an easy walk.
• Time needed: allow 1 hour for the grounds and the relic platform, or about 2 hours with a forest walk.
• Opening: the grounds are always open, but the gate is closed after 19:00 for safety. Jeongmyeol Bogung is a place of prayer, so please keep your voice down.
• Getting there: from Daegu Metro Line 1, go to Seohwa Myeonggok Station and catch bus Dalseong 5 from the Myeonggok Jigu Ipgu stop near exit 3, getting off at Yongyeonsa. Buses are infrequent, so check the timetable first. Drivers can use the car park below the temple.
• Combine with: trails continue towards the upper ridges of Biseulsan and Yugasa Temple, so the visit pairs well with a hike.