Maneosa Temple

Maneosa sits halfway up Maneosan in Samnangjin, Miryang, at the top of a field of dark boulders that pours down the slope like a frozen river for more than 700 m. According to legend, these are fish that followed the son of the Dragon King of the East Sea and turned to stone, which is why the boulders are called Maneoseok (萬魚石), "ten-thousand-fish stones". Some of them ring with a clear, metallic tone when struck. Together with Eoreumgol Ice Valley and the Pyochung Stele, it is counted among the "three mysteries of Miryang".

A temple founded under King Suro

Maneosa claims to have been founded in 46 AD, under King Suro, the founder of the Geumgwan Gaya kingdom. In Suro's time, the story goes, a poisonous dragon and a man-eating demoness brought lightning and hail that ruined the harvest for four years, until the Buddha's teaching subdued them; moved by the sermon, the fish and dragons of the East Sea gathered on the mountain and turned to stone. The Samguk Yusa, a 13th-century collection of history and legend, also records the tale of "Eosan Bulyeong" (魚山佛影), the Buddha's shadow appearing on the rocks of Maneosan. The temple is said to have been a place where Silla kings offered Buddhist prayers; it was rebuilt in 1180 and restored again in 1506 and 1879. Today it is a small mountain temple made up of the main hall, Mireukjeon, a shrine to the mountain spirits and the monks' quarters.

What to look for

• Maneosan block stream: the boulder field below the temple covers more than 110,000 m² between roughly 350 and 500 m above sea level. It formed after the last Ice Age, when heavy rains weathered the rock away layer by layer like an onion, and it was designated a Natural Monument in 2011.
• Ringing stones: tap a few of the boulders at the edge of the field lightly with a small stone. Among the dull ones are some that ring like a bell, which is why they are also called "bell stones" (jongseok) or "chime stones" (gyeongseok).
• Mireukjeon and the Maitreya Rock: inside the Mireukjeon hall stands a pointed natural rock about 5 m tall, so large that part of it sticks out of the building. It is said to be the Dragon King's son turned to stone, and there is a long-held belief that praying here helps women conceive a son.
• Three-storey stone pagoda: a national Treasure thought to date from the mid-Goryeo period. It stands a little apart from today's main hall, and the wide terrace behind it is believed to be the site of the original hall. Part of a roof stone is broken, but its proportions remain well balanced; the jewel finial on top is a later addition.
• Water basin: water from the mountain flows plentifully here, and a stone basin is said to mark the spot where the Buddha washed his robe.

Tripto tips

• Hours: listed as 08:00–18:00. There is a car park just below the temple.
• Getting there: buses are not a practical option, so come by car or taxi. If you travel by train, take a taxi from Samnangjin Station on the Gyeongbu Line. The last stretch up to the temple is a narrow, winding mountain road, so watch for oncoming cars.
• Time needed: 45 minutes to 1 hour to see the boulder field, Mireukjeon and the pagoda.
• When to go: early morning, when there are few visitors. On summer mornings the temple courtyard is sometimes wrapped in mist.
• Watch out: the boulders are uneven and slippery after rain, so wear trainers and mind the gaps between the rocks. This is a working temple, so keep your voice down in the grounds.
• Combine with: Yeongnamnu Pavilion in central Miryang and Eoreumgol, where ice forms in midsummer, for a full day in Miryang.