Hwansang Gotjawal Forest

Hwansang Gotjawal Forest in Jeoji-ri, western Jeju, is a forest whose paths were cleared by one family. In the winter of 2006, Lee Hyeong-cheol suffered a stroke that paralysed the right side of his body; as rehabilitation he began clearing the brambles with his one working hand, and the path he made now draws close to 150,000 visitors a year. What sets it apart is that a guided forest talk is included in the ticket, so you walk through the gotjawal while someone explains what kind of forest it is.

From stony wasteland to forest

Gotjawal is a forest type unique to Jeju: trees and vines growing over heaps of rock left by cooled lava flows. With almost no soil and stones everywhere, the land could not be farmed and was long dismissed as worthless. From 2007, Lee left the trees standing and let the brambles die back in the shade while he cut a narrow path. When the place opened as "Hwansang Forest Farm" in April 2011, so few people came that it earned only about KRW 200,000 a month. Today his daughter Lee Ji-young works as a forest interpreter, and most of the guides are villagers. In 2021 the Jeju Tourism Organization named it a wellness tourism site.

What to look for

• Roots that grip rock instead of soil: you can see roots wrapping around boulders and squeezing into cracks. The tangle of ferns and vines was used as a location for the BTS "Young Forever" album teaser and f(x)'s "4 Walls" music video.
• North and south in one forest: plants at the northern limit of their range grow next to plants at their southern limit. Air at a fairly constant temperature rises from the sumgol (breathing holes in the lava), so autumn leaves turn red and yellow side by side.
• Breathing holes and a cave: near the end of the walk there is a small cave whose temperature barely changes between summer and winter. On a hot day, stand at the entrance and feel the cool air.
• Birds: endangered species such as the Japanese paradise flycatcher and the fairy pitta live in the forest.
• Guide videos: if you miss a guided walk or are travelling with non-Korean speakers, the forest also has introduction videos in four languages: Korean, English, Chinese and Japanese.

Tripto tips

• Guided talks: walks start on the hour and last about 50 minutes, so time your arrival to catch one. Bookings and enquiries go through Naver Booking, linked from the official website.
• Hours and tickets: the official website lists opening hours of 09:00–18:00, closed on Sundays. The guided talk is included in admission, and visitors who arrive on foot or by bike get KRW 1,000 off.
• Extras: there is a foot-bath facility for after your walk. Crafts such as wooden necklace making are mainly offered to groups.
• On the trail: the path is gently sloped but stony. Wear trainers and bring insect repellent in summer.
• Getting there: the address is 594-1 Nokchabunjae-ro, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju-si (Jeoji-ri), roughly 50 minutes by car from Jeju Airport.
• Combine with: Hyeopjae Beach on the north coast, the Jeju Aerospace Museum and Geumoreum to the south make an easy day in western Jeju.