Hwanseongsa Temple

On the eastern flank of Palgongsan, deep in a valley in Sagi-ri, Hayang-eup, Gyeongsan, lies Hwanseongsa Temple. Its name, written with the character for "ring", comes from the way the hills wrap around it like a fortress wall. The Daeungjeon main hall, a national Treasure, the richly carved altar platform inside it and the Suwolgwan pavilion beside a pond make a calm ensemble, and the temple is busiest in spring, when its double cherry blossoms are out.

A temple with a thousand-year history

Hwanseongsa is said to have been founded in 835 by the monk Simji. It burned down at the end of the Goryeo period and was revived, then rebuilt on a large scale in 1635 by the monk Singam and again in 1897 by the monk Geungwol (named Hangwol in some sources). Today it is a branch temple of Eunhaesa, head temple of the 10th district of the Jogye Order. The Myeongbujeon hall was added in 1982 and the Gamnodang monks' quarters in 1995; the grounds also include the main hall, Simgeomdang, Suwolgwan and a mountain-spirit shrine.

What to see

• Daeungjeon (Treasure): The main hall is five bays wide and four bays deep, under a hipped-and-gabled roof. Its bracket sets sit not only on the columns but also between them, and because the front and sides are almost equal in length, its proportions are remarkably stable. During repairs in the 1970s, worn timbers were replaced and the old paintwork was matched, while the outside was freshly painted, so old and new colours now sit side by side.
• Altar platform: The three-tier platform for the Buddha statues measures 652 cm long, 220 cm deep and 114 cm high. It is finely carved with a kalavinka, the human-faced bird of the Pure Land, and many other animals, birds and flowers. Because the hall was rebuilt in 1635, among other clues, it is dated to the first half of the 17th century.
• Simgeomdang: The lecture hall beside the main hall appears to date from the early Joseon period. It is a plain building under a simple gabled roof and carries a name board written in 1824.
• Suwolgwan: The pavilion on the way up to the main hall is known to have stood by the mid-19th century at the latest and was designated a heritage item in 2013.
• Two stone basins: On the slope east of the main hall is a rectangular stone trough cut from the bedrock in the Unified Silla period. West of Suwolgwan is a boat-shaped basin with three drainage grooves in its floor, a design found nowhere else in Korea, which was most likely used for papermaking in the late Joseon period.

Tripto tips

• When to go: The double cherry blossoms peak around mid to late April, later than ordinary cherry trees, so you can still catch them after the main cherry season. From the wooden floor of Suwolgwan you can look out over the pond and the blossoms together.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour is enough to see the grounds.
• Getting there: The temple is about 6 km north-west of Hayang Station, the terminus of the Daegu Metro Line 1 extension opened in December 2024. A taxi or car is easiest; there is ample parking below the temple. Admission is free.
• Good to know: This is a working temple with resident monks. Keep your voice down in the halls and ask before taking photos inside.