Cheonggyesan

Spanning Seocho-gu in Seoul and the Gyeonggi cities of Gwacheon, Seongnam and Uiwang, Cheonggyesan is southern Seoul's go-to mountain, with the Shinbundang Line running almost to the trailhead. True to its name ("clear valley mountain"), it has clean streams and thick forest, and from Mae Rock near the Maebong peak you look out over Seoul Grand Park in Gwacheon and the ridges of Gwanaksan. On weekend mornings the Wonteogol entrance is packed with hikers; this is a mountain Seoulites know well.

From Blue Dragon Mountain to Clear Valley Mountain

The highest point is Manggyeongdae, 618 m. The Joseon-era gazetteer Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam records the mountain as Cheongnyongsan, "Blue Dragon Mountain". One explanation is that it lay to the left of the Gwacheon county office, the position of the blue dragon in traditional geomancy; another is that a blue dragon once rose to heaven here. Over time the name shifted to the similar-sounding Cheonggye, "clear valley". Together with Gwanaksan (629 m) to the west, it is one of the two mountains that frame southern Seoul.

The peaks have their own stories. Isubong, "the peak of two lives", is said to be named after the scholar Jeong Yeo-chang, who hid here during the literati purge of 1498 and twice escaped death.

The summit is a military site

You cannot climb Manggyeongdae, the true summit, because it is occupied by a military base. Military facilities have dotted the mountain since the 1950s, so follow the signs marking no-entry and no-photography zones. That is why most hikers treat Maebong as the summit.

Routes and sights

• Wonteogol to Maebong: the classic route from the Seocho side. From the Wonteogol entrance, past a spring and the steep Kkaldak pass, it is about 3 km to Maebong and takes around 1 hour 20 minutes up. Expect a lot of steps.
• Mae Rock and Maebong: from Mae Rock just below Maebong, Seoul Grand Park, central Gwacheon and Seoul Land lie at your feet.
• Isubong and Oknyeobong: many people continue along the ridge from Maebong to Isubong, or descend via Oknyeobong.
• Cheonggyesa Temple: halfway up the Uiwang side stands Cheonggyesa, said to have been founded in the Silla period.
• Forest trails: boardwalks under pines and oaks and shady rest spots by the streams make it walkable even in summer.

The bear that escaped the zoo

In December 2010 a Malayan sun bear called Kkoma escaped from Seoul Grand Park and disappeared onto Cheonggyesan, setting off a nine-day search. He survived on snacks, cup noodles and even makgeolli (rice wine) from the food stalls on the mountain before walking into a trap and returning safely to the zoo, a reminder of just how close the park and the mountain are.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: get off at Cheonggyesan Station on the Shinbundang Line and walk to the Wonteogol entrance, or take bus 4432 from Yangjae Station. There are also trailheads on the Uiwang, Seongnam and Gwacheon sides.
• Time needed: 2.5–3 hours for Wonteogol to Maebong and back, or 4–5 hours if you continue to Isubong.
• When to go: spring azaleas and autumn colour are the highlights. At weekends the Wonteogol entrance gets crowded, so start early.
• Watch out: there are many junctions and first-timers easily take a wrong turn, so check the signposts often.