Gyeonhwonsanseong Fortress (Sangju)

In Hwabuk-myeon, Sangju, on the road towards Munjangdae peak in Songnisan, a stone wall rings the summit of Jangbawisan (about 541 m). This is Gyeonhwonsanseong, named after Gyeon Hwon, founder of Later Baekje. The builders used the rock cliffs as they were and built high only where an attacker could climb, so at its tallest the outer wall reaches 15 metres. From the top of the wall you look out over the ridges of Songnisan and the fields of Hwabuk.

Gyeon Hwon's name, Silla's fortress

No one knows exactly when the fortress came to be linked with Gyeon Hwon. There is only a local tale that he stayed here and seized tribute heading south to the Silla capital, Gyeongju. The Samguk Sagi records Gyeon Hwon as a man of Sangju, and his father Ajagae came from Gaeun, now part of Mungyeong, which is why old fortresses around here became tied to his name. Gyeon Hwon served as a Silla general before rising in revolt in 892, and in 900 he made Wansanju (today's Jeonju) his capital and founded Later Baekje.

The archaeology tells a different story. Based on finds from a 1997 surface survey, researchers dated the fortress to the late 5th to early 6th century, built by Silla. It guards the route from Sangju and Mungyeong over the Sobaek Mountains to Goesan and Cheongju, and is seen as a stronghold Silla built as it pushed beyond the range. Together with Samnyeonsanseong in Boeun (built around 470) and Gomosanseong in Mungyeong, it shows how early Silla stone fortresses were constructed. It was designated a North Gyeongsang Provincial Monument in 1984.

What to see on the walls

• The wall: 650 metres around, 7–15 metres high and 4–7 metres thick. A reinforcing wall up to 6 metres high was added along the foot of the outer face, and the stones are laid in alternating directions.
• Bastions and gates: three semicircular bastions and three gates have been identified. All the gates are of the raised type, reached by ladder. There are also three stairways up onto the wall on the north side and one on the south.
• Curved corners: the four corners were built as curving bastions, and two of them, on the north-east and south-east, survive almost intact.
• The view: from the top you see the Hwabuk township, Galryeong Pass, peaks such as Hyeongjebong, Dojangsan and Cheonggyesan, and Songnisan itself. It is immediately clear that this spot could watch every pass and height around.

Tripto tips

• Finding it: from Jangam junction in Hwabuk-myeon, turn towards Munjangdae; the trail sign is about 600 metres further on. Since 2020 there has been a car park for about 200 cars across the Ipseokcheon stream.
• Walking time: it is only 700 metres from the road, but the path is steep, so allow 20–30 minutes up. Including a walk around the walls, plan on 1–2 hours.
• Photos: pines and oaks have grown close to the walls, so from below it is hard to fit the full height of the wall into one frame. The views are best from on top of the wall.
• Combine with: about 2.4 km further towards Munjangdae is the Hwabuk Osong ranger station of Songnisan National Park, where you can start a hike up to Munjangdae.
• Getting there: public transport barely reaches this area, so a car is recommended. Much of the wall top has no railings; stay away from the edges.