Euljiro Nogari Alley

When the sun goes down, the lanes of Euljiro 3-ga fill with plastic tables and beer glasses. This is the alley that started nomaek: grilled nogari (dried young pollack) dipped in red pepper paste, washed down with draught beer. By day the street belongs to tool and print shops; by night it turns into an open-air beer hall shared by office workers and young travellers, showing both sides of Euljiro.

How the alley began

The area was originally lined with company offices and tool shops. In 1980 the pub Eulji OB Bear opened and started serving nogari as a snack with draught beer. Similar pubs followed, and the name "Nogari Alley" stuck. Cheap snacks and beer drew office workers and students from nearby, and the alley grew into what it is today. Nogari is cheap and light, so even customers on a tight budget could sit down without worry.

Eulji OB Bear was listed as Seoul Future Heritage and became the first pub to be certified as a "Hundred-Year Shop", yet after a long eviction lawsuit with its landlord it was forcibly removed from its original premises in April 2022. Meanwhile, the alley has filled with the signs of larger beer chains, and calls to protect the old shops continue. A plate of nogari here comes with a side of the pressures facing Seoul's old businesses.

Euljiro by day and by night

Nogari Alley sits in the middle of Euljiro's tool and printing district. By day, handcarts loaded with hardware rattle past and print shops hum, but as office hours end, folding tables and plastic stools appear in front of the pubs. The mix of worn commercial buildings with cafés and bars hidden on their upper floors has earned the area the nickname "Hipjiro". What sets Nogari Alley apart is that it was here long before that trend began.

What to try

• Nogari and draught beer: grilled pollack dipped in red pepper paste. Light and salty, it suits beer perfectly.
• Golbaengi: spicy seasoned sea snails served with thin wheat noodles, the alley's other signature snack.
• Outdoor tables: the alley has an exception that allows tables on the street during set hours. The whole lane turning into one big outdoor drinking session is the real sight here.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: allow 1–2 hours for a table, nogari and beer.
• When to go: weekday evenings and weekends are busiest and seats are hard to find. Arrive early, around 18:00, or pick a mild spring or autumn evening.
• Getting there: take exit 3 of Euljiro 3-ga Station (Lines 2 and 3) and turn into the alley.
• Prices: hours and prices vary by pub, so check the menu before you sit down.
• Prices: hours and prices vary by pub, so check the menu before you sit down.
• Weather: the outdoor tables are the whole point, so the mood changes completely on rainy days or in deep winter. Mild spring and autumn evenings are best.
• Nearby: Gwangjang Market (about 700 m), Cheonggyecheon Stream and the print and tool lanes around Sewoon Plaza make a good Euljiro walk.