Jingwansa Temple

On the western slopes of Bukhansan in Seoul's Eunpyeong-gu, Jingwansa was founded in 1011 by the Goryeo king Hyeonjong to thank the monk Jingwan, who had saved his life. In the Joseon era it was the main temple for the state-sponsored suryukjae, a ritual for the souls of the dead, and in 2009 a Korean flag from the time of the 1919 independence movement was found hidden in one of its halls. It is not far from a subway station, yet the stream and forest around it make it one of the best places in Seoul to get a feel for a mountain temple.

The monk who hid a prince

Before he became king, Hyeonjong was known as Prince Daeryangwon, and he took refuge at a small temple here to escape those who wanted him dead. The monk Jingwan is said to have dug a hollow under the altar and hidden the twelve-year-old prince there. Once on the throne, Hyeonjong repaid him by building a large temple and naming it after him. Goryeo kings visited often, and in 1397 King Taejo, founder of the Joseon dynasty, built a 59-bay ritual hall here for the suryukjae. The Jingwansa Suryukjae that continues this tradition became National Intangible Heritage in 2013.

A flag painted over a Japanese flag

Bombing during the Korean War destroyed the main hall and many other buildings, and rebuilding began in the 1960s. Nahanjeon, Chilseonggak and Dokseongjeon escaped the fire and keep their Joseon-era form. In May 2009, while Chilseonggak was being dismantled for repair, a Korean flag and independence-era newspapers were found between the altar and the wall. What makes the flag so striking is that the taegeuk symbol and four trigrams were painted in ink over a Japanese flag. Judging by the newspapers found with it, it dates from just after the March 1st Movement of 1919, and it is thought to have been hidden by Baek Chowol, a monk active in the independence movement. It is now designated a Treasure.

The lane that leads up to the temple gate is named Baekchowol-gil in his honour. The flag and the newspapers found with it were designated a Treasure in 2021. In the temple, look for Chilseonggak itself and picture the story there.

What to see

• Geungnakgyo Bridge and the stream: a stone bridge crosses the stream that runs through the middle of the temple. In summer you hear the water; in winter the snow-covered railings are lovely.
• Daeungjeon: the main hall, dedicated to Shakyamuni. Its lawn and the Bukhansan ridge behind it make a classic view.
• Nahanjeon: home to a clay Shakyamuni triad, 16 clay arhat statues and a Vulture Peak assembly painting, all listed as Seoul cultural heritage.
• Chilseonggak and Dokseongjeon: the hall where the flag was found stands beside the small Dokseongjeon. Both survived the war, and you can see their age in the paintwork and pillars.
• Dongjeonggak: the bell pavilion, with a bell cast in 1974. It is struck 28 times at dawn and 33 times in the evening.

A temple known for its food

Jingwansa is widely known for its temple cuisine. Hyangjeokdang houses a space for researching and teaching temple food, with classes and events for foreign visitors too. The temple also runs a temple stay programme, so if you would like to spend a night and join the services and meals, apply in advance.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: from Gupabal Station on subway line 3, take a bus or taxi towards Eunpyeong Hanok Village. From the village, walk about 10 minutes along Baekchowol-gil to the temple gate. The address is 73 Jingwan-gil, Eunpyeong-gu.
• Time needed: 1 hour for the temple, 2–3 hours if you also stroll through Eunpyeong Hanok Village.
• When to go: summer for the cool stream, late October to early November for autumn colour, and right after a snowfall in winter.
• Etiquette: don't take photos inside the halls, and keep quiet during services.
• Combine with: Eunpyeong Hanok Village just below, and if you have time, a walk on the lower slopes of Bukhansan.