Tomb of King Heondeok

In a grove of twisting pines beside the Bukcheon stream in Gyeongju lies the tomb of King Heondeok (r. 809–826), the 41st ruler of Silla. A ring of stones carved with the animals of the zodiac surrounds the round mound, which is 26 m across and 6 m high, though only five of the carvings survive. Unlike the busy Daereungwon tomb park, this is a royal tomb you can visit in near silence, walking among the pines.

A king who seized the throne from his nephew

Heondeok's personal name was Kim Eon-seung, and he took the throne by killing his nephew, King Aejang. During his reign he encouraged farming and kept close ties with Tang China, but at home the kingdom was shaken by one rebellion after another.

The Samguk sagi records that when the king died in 826 he was buried north of Cheollimsa Temple. The temple's location is uncertain, but there is a temple site just south of this tomb, which is thought to be Cheollimsa. The tomb was designated a Historic Site in 1963.

The guardian stones

A ring of retaining stones protects the base of the mound. A row of base stones was laid first, flat facing slabs were stood on top, and upright pillar stones were fitted between the slabs. These pillars were carved with the zodiac animals, each placed to face its own compass direction, but only five remain: the pig, rat, ox, tiger and rabbit. Outside the ring stands a stone railing, and the ground between the railing and the mound is paved with stone.

The tomb took its present form during restoration in the 1970s, when some of the retaining stones and the railing were newly made. Walk once around the mound looking for the surviving animals and you will soon notice the difference between the old stones and the new.

Silla in Heondeok's time

The early 9th century, when Heondeok reigned, was the beginning of the end for the Silla royal house. Aristocrats of the true-bone rank fought constantly over the throne, and in 822 Kim Heon-chang, governor of Ungcheon-ju (today's Gongju), rebelled on the grounds that his father had been denied the crown. He was powerful enough to proclaim a state called Jangan with its own era name, Gyeongun, but the revolt was soon crushed. Three years later his son Kim Beom-mun rose again and also failed. Kim Heon-chang's revolt is often described as the first large-scale challenge by a provincial power to the royal court in late Silla.

Retaining stones carved with the zodiac animals are a hallmark of Unified Silla royal tombs. Because each animal marks a compass direction, the five that survive here (pig, rat, ox, tiger and rabbit) sit in a run from the northwest round through the north to the east of the mound. Walking clockwise around the tomb and finding them in order is a nice way to look at it.

Tripto tips

• Access: Open at all times, every day. There is parking but no toilet.
• Time needed: 20–30 minutes is enough for a slow circuit of the mound looking for the zodiac animals.
• Combine it with: It is about 1 km in a straight line from Bunhwangsa Temple, so it fits easily into a bike ride with Bunhwangsa and the Hwangnyongsa Temple Site. Other Silla tombs with zodiac reliefs on their retaining stones include the Tomb of General Kim Yu-sin and Gwaereung (the tomb of King Wonseong), and comparing them shows how the carving style varies.
• When to go: The pine shade makes it pleasant even in midsummer, and early-morning light through the trees is especially nice.
• Information: Gyeongju City Cultural Heritage Division, +82-54-779-6110.