Palbongsan Mountain (Seosan)

Eight rocky knobs rise in a row from the fields of Palbong-myeon, Seosan, topping out at 362 m. It is not high, but after iron stairs and a squeeze through a rock tunnel the summit opens onto the mudflats and sea of Garorim Bay on the Taean Peninsula, a big West Sea view for a short hike.

Eight peaks and the ninth that cried

As the name says, eight peaks run from north to south; the highest is Peak 3 (362 m). Legend has it there were once nine, but the smallest was left out of the name, and the slighted ninth peak was said to cry at the end of every December.

The mountain is made of Jurassic biotite granite. Peaks 1 to 4 are stacks of rock where boulders and pines mix; peaks 5 to 8 are gentler, soil-covered ridges. The site of the former Unamsa Temple lies near Peak 1. Palbongsan already appears in Hosanrok, a Joseon-era record of the Seosan area, which says the first peak is walled by sheer rock on three sides, climbable only by birds, and tells of a band of robbers who dug a cave there and, when troops surrounded them, slipped away at night down the unguarded cliff at the back.

Honey locust grows wild at the foot of the mountain, and white royal azaleas form bands 40–50 m wide along the ridge, flowering among the grey rocks in spring.

The route to the top

• Yanggil-ri car park: most hikes start at this northern trailhead. About 15 minutes along a forest track through pines brings you to Turtle Spring and a rest area with a stone marked "Manse Palbong".
• Peak 1: a short out-and-back from the saddle between peaks 1 and 2, but the boulder-stacked top gives a view of the West Sea to the north and the rocks of peaks 2 and 3.
• Peak 2 and the iron stairs: steep iron stairs lead over Peak 2 to a helipad. Named rocks such as Ureok (rockfish) Rock and Turtle Rock are nearby.
• Tongcheon Cave and Peak 3: just below the summit there is a long iron staircase and, beside it, Tongcheongul, a narrow passage through the rock; going through the cave is the more fun option. Both of the twin summit rocks have a summit stone.
• Peak 4: the best spot to look back at the summit rocks.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 2–3 hours from Yanggil-ri over Peak 3 to Peak 4 and back; the full traverse of all eight peaks takes a little over 3 hours.
• Best seasons: fresh green in spring and autumn colour. In June the Palbongsan Potato Festival is held around the Yanggil-ri car park.
• Getting there: driving from central Seosan is easiest; park at Yanggil-ri.
• Watch out: the iron stairs and rock sections around peaks 2 and 3 are steep, so bring gloves and grippy boots. Tongcheon Cave is narrow and a large backpack may catch. There is another Palbongsan in Hongcheon, Gangwon, so search for "Seosan Palbongsan" when navigating.
• Make a day of it: after the hike, head to the nearby coast at Gudo Port or Hakampo for views of Garorim Bay and Seosan–Taean seafood.