Gimhae Bonghwang-dong Site

In the middle of Gimhae, the low hill of Bonghwangdae and the shell mound below it make up the Gimhae Bonghwang-dong Site, where the people of Geumgwan Gaya lived. It combines the Hoehyeon-ri shell mound, scene of Korea's first archaeological survey in 1907, with the largest settlement site of Geumgwan Gaya, so it shows the "Gaya of the living" as a counterpart to the "Gaya of the dead" at King Suro's tomb and the Daeseong-dong tumuli.

From shell mound to royal seat

A shell mound is a heap of discarded shells mixed with everyday rubbish. The Hoehyeon-ri shell mound here was designated a Historic Site in 1963 and, in 2001, was combined with Bonghwangdae, a Geumgwan Gaya settlement, to form today's Bonghwang-dong Site. Along with pottery, bone and antler tools and spindle whorls, the mound yielded charred rice, an important source for the study of ancient rice farming. It also produced a huoquan coin minted by Wang Mang of China's Xin dynasty in 14 BC, which helps date the site and proves contact across the sea with China. Dolmens, jar burials and house sites have been found east of the mound, and the site as a whole is seen as a window on life in southern Korea from about the 1st to the 4th century.

The Bonghwangdae area is known as the site of Geumgwan Gaya's royal palace or royal fortress. Excavations have revealed a landing place for boats, storehouse sites, ironworking areas and traces of an earthen wall, and in 2024 a massive 5th-century fill layer, compacted with crushed shells and up to 4 m deep, was uncovered on the east side of the hill. Digging continues as archaeologists work out what the heart of Gaya looked like.

What to see

• Bonghwangdae hill: A Joseon-era magistrate of Gimhae thought the hill looked like a phoenix spreading its wings, built a terrace on it and named it Bonghwangdae, "phoenix terrace". On top are Hwangse Rock and the shrine Yeouigak, linked to the legend of General Hwangse and the maiden Yeoui.
• Reconstructed Gaya village: A raised storehouse on stilts, a watchtower, pit dwellings and a model of a Gaya boat are scattered around a pond and through the woods, a good stop with children.
• Shell mound exhibition hall: A hall introducing the Hoehyeon-ri shell mound and its finds. Once you understand how the mound built up, the hill looks quite different.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: Around an hour covers the hill, the reconstructed village and the exhibition hall.
• Getting there: From Bonghwang Station on the Busan–Gimhae Light Rail, a footbridge over the Haebancheon stream leads straight into the park. King Suro's tomb is only about 600 m away, an easy walk, and the Daeseong-dong tumuli and Gimhae National Museum are close by.
• Fees and parking: The park is open every day of the year with no admission fee, and parking is free.
• Combine with: The Gimhae Folk Museum, also in Bonghwang-dong, displays everyday objects and folk games of Gimhae people from the late Joseon period to modern times. Admission is free; it opens 09:00–17:30 and closes on Mondays.
• When to go: The park is full of trees and looks especially good in autumn colours. Book ahead and you can join a heritage guide.